Mini BIAB

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Primavera
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Mini BIAB

Post by Primavera » 1 year ago

So.....

Weather forecast is for cold and snow this weekend. I will go crazy if all I can do is sit around and watch TV.

I have a 15L / 4G kettle that BIABacus says will give me 5L 1.3G VIF

Assuming I can persuade my wife to let me brew indoors;

Anything I need to do differently for a 1G batch?

Any suggestions for a recipe?

Do people in Australia have globes with the South Pole on top?

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Post by Mad_Scientist » 1 year ago

Sorry about that cold, maybe snow skiing is in order, or just relax and brew a homebrew. How about my Dead Guy ale?

MS


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Post by Primavera » 1 year ago

I'm thinking an Arrogant Bastard clone.


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Post by Primavera » 1 year ago

Not knowing my evaporation rate, efficiency or any of that geeky beer stuff for a 1G batch, any advice for scaling my 5G system down?


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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

Primavera, BIABACUS can Scale any size recipe to 1G.

Or If your in a Hurry, divide the the TWN, Grain bill and hop schedule of the 5 gallon recipe, by 5.

It will be a bit different for the 5 Gallon brew, Mostly by Bitterness.
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Post by Primavera » 1 year ago

Joshua

Will BIABacus estimate evaporation based on kettle size?
Are efficiency and hop utilization linear?
Is there any magic behind the BIABacus curtain that makes scaling more accurate?

I ask more out of curiosity than anything else. If I do brew a 1G batch, it will be more as a learning experience than anything else. I especially want to know the upper limit of my wife's patience with my hobby.


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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

Primavera,

Yes, if you have a Great Rolling Boil, BIABACUS will be Withe 5%, due to Atmosphere Conditions, and is adjustable, to suit your area.

The Efficiency is Calculated, like usual, and Hop Utilization is Linear, But you may taste a bit less flavor,and a bit more Bitterness, due to Faster cooling post Boil than Large Batches.

The Scaling is not Magic, Just a whole Lot easier with BIABACUS, Than By Hand.

I found a Long time ago, wasting 1 gallon, because I miss-measured Hops or Spices is MUCH Better than 19L/5 Gallons.
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Post by Contrarian » 1 year ago

With faster chili for wouldn't you get less bitterness and more flavour/aroma from hops due to less time spent at optimal temp for conversion of alpha acids?

Otherwise advice is sound.


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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

Contrarian, The Harsh Bitterness drops out at 208F, and the Nice Bitterness drops off around 153F, the Flavor Drops Off around 160F.

My 5 gallon/19L take around 3 hours to No-Chill/Slo-chill. A good length of Time to Get Mild Bitterness and Flavor!

My Test 1 Gallon/4L Batches Cool to 72F/23C in around 55 minutes.

Small Batches Have much less HEAT, Than Large Batches, due to their relative Volumes.

Less time in Hop Stand, less everything.
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Post by Contrarian » 1 year ago

Have to disagree with this. Conversion of alpha acids is based on time and temperature as well as the gravity of the wort. The general consensus is that 60 minutes at boiling is full utilization meaning no additional bitterness will be obtained from a longer exposure to boiling wort.

Conversion of alpha acids stops at around 80C or 173F. So rapidly chili get wort to below this temperature means that alpha acids are contributing to flavour and aroma rather than being converted to bitterness.

There is no scientific consensus about how late hop additions should be calculated in no chill but anecdotally adding around 10-15 minutes to the additions seems to give decent results.

So for a brew with the same gravity and hop additions one that is chilled should have more flavour and aroma and less bitterness than the same wort that was no chilled.


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Post by PistolPatch » 1 year ago

Contrarian wrote:Have to disagree with this...

So for a brew with the same gravity and hop additions one that is chilled should have more flavour and aroma and less bitterness than the same wort that was no chilled.
Yep Josh, I too saw your post the other day and, like Contrarian, was scratching my head but had no time to enquire further (still don't).

Increased time at boiling temps and near boiling temps increases bitterness (with the exception of FWH'ing).
Contrarian wrote:Conversion of alpha acids is based on time and temperature as well as the gravity of the wort.
Correct except for the gravity bit. Whilst the formulas use gravity (including the current BIABacus) more recent research show that it is not so much the gravity but the extra trub the a higher gravity beer makes. This extra trub steals hop oils away. Next BIABacus attempts to address this a tad.
Contrarian wrote:There is no scientific consensus about how late hop additions should be calculated in no chill but anecdotally adding around 10-15 minutes to the additions seems to give decent results.
These 10 to 15 minute things are quite faulted. Chilling Myths - Asking the Right Questions explains why. Sections G and I in The BIABacus allow for a great deal of info to be conveyed. All programs/recipe reports should include this info as without it, no recipe relying on hops can be conveyed with much accuracy even if all other info was known (storage conditions since harvest, AA%, etc, etc.).

Primavera

Normal size home brew batches are really hard to measure well let alone mini ones so just do the best you can and go for it!!!

:luck:

Oh, and put your BIABacus file up here before you brew for checking if you can.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Jan 2016, 21:02, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Contrarian » 1 year ago

That's a good link to the thread about chilling. To clarify my point about calculating no chill and cube additions I was talking about common ways that Brewers estimate them rather than whether or not there was scientific evidence to support that.

As is stated in the linked post the calculation methods for IBUs don't agree with each other but what people have observed is that 0 minute additions, cube additions, whirlpool additions do add bitterness and so they have attempted to estimate this by modifying the time in the software.

Hop additions is the part of brewing that is almost impossible to replicate when copying recipes as there are so many variables that are practically impossible to control for, even on the same system ambient temperature can change everything!

It's only through experimenting on your system with your conditions that you can find an approach that works for you.


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Post by JayP » 1 year ago

I'm a mini BIAB brewer with a 15L pot and am getting 9.5-10L into the fermenter.

Basically I'm mashing in with 10L strike water, adding around 5 L or thereabouts before the boil to give me a boil volume of about 14L and after Evap (1.3L / hr) and trub losses and regularly ending up with 10L brews.

This is all based on BIABacus and the withholding water section towards the end. Reaching OG of 1.05 with 2kg grain bills no problem.

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