Element options for 50L kettle

For those who use electricity to fire their BIAB brews.
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mally
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Post by mally » 2 years ago

see post #3 above
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life

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Post by Bellybuster » 2 years ago

I have 3 of those push button controllers with the digital readout. Two of them are off or full power and the other never gets past 2000 watts. The control of the working ones is not near linear.
I'm sure there are some good ones out there too though

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Post by mally » 2 years ago

I guess it's pot luck on quality?

Before using I set mine up on an oscilloscope & it worked perfectly linearly, as an example at 50% you could see half of the sine wave chopped off.
The only odd thing that happened was that on the workbench the 0-100 was reversed. Almost like it was set to "percentage off" rather than "percentage on", but when used normally it was back to what you would expect (& the wiring was not reversed)!

I set mine between 60-70% normally and it works great for my large volume brews.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life

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Post by Bellybuster » 2 years ago

Glad to hear you got a good one. I like the cool factor of buttons and lights.


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Post by bionut » 2 years ago

I come with another ideea, is it posible to take a 380V 9000W element and reduce the power so it will give around 2000-3000W? Can this work?

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Post by Bellybuster » 2 years ago

I don't get the issue, you've got a 32A socket. Why not just run a single 5500 watt element? It's a tried and true system. I would hazard a guess that 90% of Brewers using a Keggle have gone this route.


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Post by bionut » 2 years ago

If i could easily buy a 5500w ulwd element i would do so.

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mally
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Post by mally » 2 years ago

Bionut - I am not sure what you are thinking about with the reduced power scenario, but at first glance I would think you would need some form of controllable power supply. If so, I would also "guess" that the cost of this could be the most prohibitive? If i have misunderstood just ignore.

Do you have any friends or family in mainland Europe? Just wondered if you could order one to be delivered to say Hungary, and then post on from there or collect? (I have no idea how far that would be)!

Bellybuster - What seems simple to you may not be the same for others (we are an international site). As an example, I have 2 X 2.4Kw elements driving my kettle. I have a single 32A cable going to a double socket in my garage. Each socket is only capable of running at 13A continuous load and 19A total (all at 240V). If I went the single ULWD route I would have to pay an electrician to fit a socket in my garage (in the UK this modification would probably fall under "part P" building regulations). So there would be extra expense for labour, parts etc.

That being said; if I had a blank canvas to work from I would not hesitate to go the ULWD route (as long as I could purchase one)!
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life

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Post by Bellybuster » 2 years ago

The man already has the rated wiring, already has a Keggle. Most of the time simple is the best route.
Here's a 5500 ulwd element in the UK.

Don't get me wrong, not trying to be gruff at all. I just don't understand why you would want multiple elements/cables etc, when one has been proven time and time again.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reliance-Water- ... N92ZBRCDT2
Last edited by Bellybuster on 29 Jul 2015, 16:18, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by bionut » 2 years ago

Mally, a controllable power suply is what i was thinking. I don't know how expensive it can be. Also i don't have any friends in Hungary, altough we are neighbours. I also don't know if the shipping to Hungary would be a lot cheaper than directly to Romania.

Bellybuster, the element you linked to it seems that is Currently unavailable, if you can find one that is available and can ship to Romania (so a UK store would be great), please let me know. I would definitely choose a single ULWD element if i could get one at a good cost, what i was asking before was only a way to get around my problem.
Are you sure that element is ULWD? In the description isn't mentioned that.

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mally
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Post by mally » 2 years ago

bellybuster - No problem about "the gruff" I think we are all just trying to help someone out.
BTW it was Adamkse (the OP) that detailed his electrics. I'm not sure what electrics Bionut currently has :scratch: . (though I may have missed it)!

The only benefit I can see of 2 elements versus one (ignoring costs) is in the very rare occurrence when the element goes pop.
2 will have some redundancy built in. :peace:
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life


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Post by bionut » 2 years ago

I don't want 2 elements, just a 9000w one reduced to about 3000w to simulate a ulwd element. This way the cost isn't too big, it's even cheaper than ordering a ulwd from usa.
I have a 4500w ulwd Camco element from a friend, but it has steel socket and can rust in time, that's why i am looking for a possible alternative.
For now i will use the one i have, already ordered a PID and SSR.
Sorry for my english, probably that's why you don't understand always what i am talking about :lol:

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Post by Bellybuster » 2 years ago

I see, I have 3 people mixed up in the same thread.

Just for interest, I have the camco 4500 ulwd in my boiler for my "other hobby". It is 3 years old and no signs of rusting

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