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joshua
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Post by joshua » 2 years ago

Sync, 2gal./5gal. = 0.40 and 0.40 * 2.5gram = 1.00gram.

You got 5gal./2gal. = 2.5 and that is why 6.25 grams.

The spices should be in Section 'F' as Misc, and you can make Notes.

Also, Did you enter the Recipe as 5 gallons, and add that volume in Section 'D' so the program will correct everything to 0.40 for the 2 gallon Batch??
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Post by Syncharmony » 2 years ago

Hi Josh,

Yeah, that's exactly what I did. All other calculations are being handled correctly, I guess perhaps the formula under F is backwards?

That's what I'm going to do, just multiple the recommended additions by 0.4 and use that. Then if it's lacking in spice, it says in the recipe that you can add directly to the fermenter just like dry hopping.
joshua wrote:Sync, 2gal./5gal. = 0.40 and 0.40 * 2.5gram = 1.00gram.

You got 5gal./2gal. = 2.5 and that is why 6.25 grams.

The spices should be in Section 'F' as Misc, and you can make Notes.

Also, Did you enter the Recipe as 5 gallons, and add that volume in Section 'D' so the program will correct everything to 0.40 for the 2 gallon Batch??
Last edited by Syncharmony on 29 Aug 2015, 00:09, edited 40 times in total.


joshua
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Post by joshua » 2 years ago

You may want to 'Dry Spice', in the Secondary, since the Primary may take away all the Nice Aroma with the CO2.
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Post by Inconceivable » 2 years ago

Howdy all
Regarding FWH after reading a lot of articles, thread, and listening to podcasts my inclination is to not bother.

I can't find anyone saying they decisively noticed a Pale Ale or IPA with a smoother bitterness or better aroma

Do most of you just do a 60/90 minute bittering addition and not bother with FWH?


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Post by joshua » 2 years ago

IC, I use FWH, since it is started 10-20 minutes before the Boil Starts...

Since I Pull the Grain Bag to drain it, I put in the Hop Sack, so I do not Forget it.

I do not time the Hop Additions since the 'Hop Stand'/'Whirlpool hopping" takes care of the Flavor and Aroma Additions very well.

I forgot to mention, I only boil long enough to get the GAW and/or the VFO.

I do check the Gravity every 15-20 minutes during the Mash and Boil.
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Post by Inconceivable » 2 years ago

Hi Joshua
So if I've understood your approach you use FWH to get more time for bittering since, depending on your VFO target being reached you would conceivably stop the boil before 60 mins? (which would be sub-optimal with a normal bittering addition)


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Post by joshua » 2 years ago

IC, that is why I use the FWH option,

Some boil times have been 50 minutes, But, 20 minutes from mashout to boil, then 25-30 minutes for Hop stand, leaves the Bitterness addition in the Kettle for 95-100 minutes Minimum.

As long as the Wort is above 160F, there is Bitterness happening.
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Post by Inconceivable » 2 years ago

Anyone using 'hop tea' to test hop flavor and aroma combos? How'd it go?

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Post by ShorePoints » 2 years ago

ShorePoints wrote:Junga hops - My HBC is supplying members with (free) Junga hops, purported to be "the next Citra." Forum search comes up empty, so has anyone had experience with Junga hops? Otherwise known / possibly described in wider searches as hops from Poland, Czech Saaz-related, Northern Brewer hops etc. I am thinking of doing a brew with 2 Row and 2% wheat with only Junga hops to give a beer I would like to call "Junga Than That Now." (Sing it!) The HBC gave out Belma hops a few years ago and it was not a raging success among the beers brewed by otherwise talented brewers. I'm hoping this will be better.
Three months later came the meeting that featured the brewing results. All 12 brewers who picked up the challenge had to bring a growler or 6-pack. A rudimentary judging process was used to select the top three beers and ribbons were awarded. Leftover bags of Junga leaf hops were also given - First prize, one bag; Second prize, two bags. It is unlikely that anyone there will again brew with only Junga. The blue ribbon winner was a standard big beer recipe made by three members who always brew at least 10 gallons a week. They brewed, conditioned and kegged, and a total of 13 days later it’s a contest winner. Those guys are good. A different winner was a porter (covered up the hops?).
As for my non-winning entry, I BIAB brewed 19 L (VIP) on 5 Sep with a hopsack (leaf hops, dried, 9.9% AA), used a secondary fermenter and bottled on 19 Sep. The IPA I made is a bit cloudy due to my inexperience with leaf hops, plus I did not cold-crash. It is getting clearer in the bottles as the weeks pass. Despite 115+ gm employed plus dry hopping, there is not any remarkable contribution from Junga. Advertised flavors of black currants are not present at all, but there is a citrus note. It is not a bad IPA, just not on my short list of brews to be repeated. As for me, it is not the new Citra and I’m with Joshua on Junga (post #73 in this thread). :peace:

Next brew club challenge - split the wort and use half for a lager, half for an ale with club-provided yeasts.
Last edited by ShorePoints on 21 Nov 2015, 22:35, edited 40 times in total.


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Post by PistolPatch » 2 years ago

My topic notification thing isn't working so missed a few posts here. Sometimes I wonder how many great posts slip through because of erratic notification :scratch:.

Inconceivable: That's a great question above and deserves its own thread I think. I would definitely start a new thread for that question.

ShorePoints: "First prize, one bag; Second prize, two bags." :lol: :lol: :lol:. Thanks for that info SP and I hope a few people have read it and taken note of it so as your info can be passed on. Sounds like a great brew club :salute:.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 02 Dec 2015, 19:31, edited 40 times in total.
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Post by DanIAm » 2 years ago

Inconceivable wrote:Anyone using 'hop tea' to test hop flavor and aroma combos? How'd it go?
As PP said, definitely worthy of a new thread.

I have considered it, the concept is brilliant, in practice is where it falls down.

Most of my brews are using known hops, I already know how they end up now, so pointless to do it.

For unknown hops, well... If I was given hops and then wanted to brew, for sure, it would be madness not to figure out the hop so that you can then work out a direction for a brew for it - so 'hop tea' would be the first thing to do.

But usually, it's in reverse, I have a target beer that I want to clone, I'll find a few recipes for it, eliminate the wilder ones and come up with a middle of the road recipe from the remaining recipes and buy the hops accordingly. When it comes to tasting, I compare my brew with a bottle of the original for comparison and revise my recipe from there.

But as a palate education exercise, it is a great concept and both brew clubs and local home brew shops should do 'hop tea' days. For me as an individual, I'm not going to the brewshop and buying minimums of 40grams times several types of hops and only using 1 gram in tea to compare them.

But I'd happily pay some money for an event like this and have a range of hops in teas side by side. As an example, there are a few hops with citrus notes, how they combine with grapefruit (which I hate, but am okay with as a note in beer) or passionfruit and various other notes would be interesting - and guide my hop selection instead of sticking with the ole faithfuls.
Last edited by DanIAm on 21 Dec 2015, 23:26, edited 40 times in total.


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Electric urn question

Post by Pilch » 2 years ago

Rooky question #1 from me - can I use an exposed element hot water urn for BIAB?
And, could I use my old electric copper?

I know that's technically two questions but I don't want to use up my count to early...lol


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Post by joshua » 2 years ago

Pilch, I am not a Urn User, But Look over "A Guide to Electric BIAB using an Urn at "viewtopic.php?f=24&t=80

Good Luck, many of Us use a 40 litre Buffalo CC193, like "New Buffalo GL349 at viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3352
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Post by Pilch » 2 years ago

Thanks Josh, those links proved to be very informative. I think a 40lt urn it is the way I will go, and an immersion cooler to cool in the urn as well.


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Post by Pilch » 2 years ago

Rookie question #2 - how do you fine people measure your volume at the appropriate intervals during the BIAB process to fill in details on the BIABacus? Measured marks on the sight glass (if there is one)??


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Post by Pat » 2 years ago

I've just deleted one or two answers from this thread as they were incorrect. Pilch, buy a stainless steel ruler and read this post.
Last edited by Pat on 27 Dec 2015, 23:45, edited 40 times in total.
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Post by Pilch » 2 years ago

I have a large steel ruler at home, will have to check if it is stainless or not? I had not picked up on the handy volume measuring tool in the calculator, it all makes perfect sense now Cheers.
Thanks Pat, and thankyou to who ever else had a crack at answering my question and may have been deleted.
I checked out that thread you suggested and it is full of useful stuff that I will undoubtedly refer back to when I start DIAB brewing very soon.


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Post by Pilch » 1 year ago

Rookie Question #3
Mash Out - what and how?


joshua
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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

Mash-out is raising the Mash Temperature 172.4 F (78 C) for enough time to raise the Bag and let it drain, to prevent Tannin Extraction, and start breaking down the Enzymes.

Or start to Raise the temperature to boiling, and Pulling the bag, at 172.4 F (78 C), and let it drain.

The Latter is the easiest way to go.

JMHO.
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Post by Pilch » 1 year ago

So do I leave the bag in for the allotted mash out time and temperature or, do I just get it out once the mash out temp has been reached and then hang the bag for the allotted time?
I did a search but didn't find any older posts covering it but if someone has a link to a previous explanation or knows of a good video showing the mash out process it would be really handy.


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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

With BIAB, start heating the "Sweet Liquor" from you mash Temperature and Pull the Bag at the Mash-out temperature, let it drain for a while.

Then, with two lids from your stove Pots, and some insulated Gloves, squeeze the #^%$^ out of the bag, to recover all that sweet Liquor that you can!!

Then Check your Head space, to see if your Near VIB(Volume Into the Boil) that BIABACUS projects, and write the Volume(VIB) down.

You may find there is Nearly as much sweet liquor, as the TWN you started with, due to the extraction of the Sugars from the Converted Starch.

Also, Measure the Gravity and write down the "Gravity Into the Boil"(GIB).

There is a place to adjust BIABACUS after a few Batches, so please keep records!!

It sounds like a lot of Work, but, all the bag work is being done, as your waiting for your Kettle to Boil, to add your Bitterness Hops.

You will probably have 15 to 20 minutes, to do this.

Good Luck!
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Post by Nuff » 1 year ago

MODNOTE: Some Farenheit to Celsius conversions above corrected to 78 C for mashout temp.
Last edited by Nuff on 29 Dec 2015, 16:36, edited 40 times in total.


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Post by Pilch » 1 year ago

Thanks Joshua, now it all makes sense. Only one further question, I obviously can't take an SG reading immediately of the hot liqueur, do I take a sample and let it cool to around 20c before taking the SG?


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Post by joshua » 1 year ago

Yes, take the Sample after the Bag is pulled and Drained, and Squeezed. Then, take your sample of GIB, and Measure the Volume in the kettle VIB.

There is No Hurry to read the GIB, let it Cool, since the next SG measurement will be after the End of the Boil, called GAW.

[MODNOTE: Next part of this answer lead to a whole new subject which I have appended to this thread.]
Last edited by joshua on 30 Dec 2015, 08:16, edited 40 times in total.
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Post by Pilch » 1 year ago

Rookie Question #4
What effect does pitching the yeast at a higher temp have I.e. Suggested brew temp 19c, yeast pitched @ 28c?

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