@Alanem, I'm with Todd. Keep it simple. Use 2 vials, don't secondary and pitch onto yeast cake. There's no reason that this won't make excellent beer. If you're relatively new to this don't overcomplicate it
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Hi Ben, im not sure about instructions. I remember finding a thread dedicated to buffalo mods on jbk. However, the boil dry sensor is mounted on the underside of the element, held in place by 2 nuts. Id recommend remiving the nuts and somehow keeping it away from the element. You need to be careful ...
Hi Ben. I love my 40l buffalo. I got a custom made bag from http://custombiab.blogspot.ie/?m=1 which i would highly recommend. Also i put a tap in mine and made a copper manifold which blocks when i use pellets. With hindsight i might skip the tap and just siphon out the wort. I saw an excellent cop...
Hi Mase, i have a 40l buffalo and i love it. I bought mine from Nisbetts a few years ago (Ireland). I like the convenience of electric. I brew standard brew lengths 19 to 23 litre batches. You can brew indoors with electric but itll generate a lot if steam so best done outside or in a shed.
Hi houdini. Your mash ph would be way too high with ro water unless your grainbill includes 10%+ dark malts or unless your addin sauermalz. I use ro and ph is well above target unless the mash is acidified somehow
- Forum: From Mash to Lauter (Water to Sweet Liquor)
- Topic: Crisis in the brewery: Low attenuation, sweet beer
- Replies: 9
- Views: 4420
- 4 years ago
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Hi alanhem. I use the stc to hit mash temp by just dropping the probe straight in. My probe is encased in rubber. However when i hit temp, i unplug power and lag. I leave the probe in just as a digital thermometer
Ive felt the boil on my buffalo to be a little weak. Uve been trying to come up with all sorts of complicated solutions suvh as making a heatstick or adding an extra element. This is an excellent and simple solution. I cant wait to try it
Hard luck Hiebster. Stick with it. We learn vy our mistakes. I used to leave the bottling bucket spigot open when i was siphoning into it and id realise when it was sitting in a puddle of beer☺ dont do that anymore!
Just dump the moss in 10 or 15 mins from end of boil. No rehydration requiredsafebrew222 wrote:As far as I know, Irish Moss should be rehydrated and added to boil 5 minutes or so before you turn off the heat (flameout).
Hi Tim id be wary of pitching at 12 and gradual rise to 18 as in your notes. I recently brewer a wheatbeer 50/50 pils/wheat malt and i fermented at 16C as is recommended in Brewing Classic Styles. I like the banana to be very subtle in my wheat beers but this liw temp completely killed it and its no...
Yes! Thanks PP. I recently acquired a copy of BCS and I love radical brewing. I'd highly recommend the dry Irish Cerveza de Malto Seca from BCS. One of the best brews I've done and I plan doing it again soon
Thanks for your inputs guys. I'll change some settings in the biabacus based on this info. Good to know my boil off rate seems ok. Should get better accuracy with my numbers for the next brew.( hadn't noticed section X:))
Tried beersmith a few years ago and wasn't impressed. Really just use it for putting recipes together. Anyway, I've always brewed by the seat of my pants and made some great beer. Until recently, I never even measured my starting water, just knew approximately what was going into my kettle. I recent...
Nicko, be wary of single thermometer readings. In my experience the mash can have pockets of varying temperatures. Stir the sh1t out if it a d add heat very cautiously. If you used a half decent strike water temp calculator you can't be far off the mark
Leighaus, I've no sky hook either so I stand on the counter over the pot to pull the bag. I'd recommend a pair of these, excellent for squeezing the bag http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XAL1Q ... SY165_QL70
@unknownguest, while you're figuring out your technique you can do iodine tests to check conversion. I do 70-90min mashes depending on how patient I am or how late at night it is. Btw, I used to mash overnight but stopped as my beers were coming out thin and attenuating more than they should. I now ...
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