Please Help Bad Taste

First post by Philip321, 3 years ago

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I created a yeast starter with Wyeast 3724.
I brewed a Saison and tried pressure fermenting at 90F = 32C with a spunding valve set at 10psi; big mistake.
Wyeast recommend fermenting at this temperature.
It started out OK but then went for a week and 2 days of no fermentation and developed a horrible taste.
Then I learned Wyeast 3724 does not like Pressure.
So I transferred the 2 corny kegs to 2 fermentation buckets i.e. no pressure
Kept the temperature at 90F = 32C controlled with a STC1000 but...

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Hello, Phillip321.

I see that you have a number of questions here. The bad taste is (to me) the most important - the complex equipment you describe here and in other posts is far beyond my experience in BIAB brewing: kettle, bag, hopsack, bucket, wide-mouth glass carboy, gravity transfer hoses followed by bottles. Temperature is measured and crudely controlled, but mostly ambient after pitching. 100+ batches experience, none tossed, so far.

Wyeast 3724 is found here (the source) and an...

Spunding valve for 3 corny kegs

First post by Philip321, 3 years ago

Photo of my Spunding valve for 3 corny kegs.
Warning:-
Do not pressure ferment some types of yeast.
I tried to pressure ferment Wyeast 3724 and it was a disaster.

Inkbird

First post by Oldgit, 9 years ago

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I've finally got a brew fridge, very impressed with the ink bird
I put a FV in at 1530 and by 1800 it was at 21c started out at 24.7 :lol:
If I new how to put photos up I would :lol:
Just need to get one more fridge now :thumbs:

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After about a year and a half something strange has begun with my Inkbird ITC-308. It seems that as the set temperature is lowered the probe reading drifts further from the actual temperature. I have a digital thermometer that I calibrated in both ice water and boiling, accounting for elevation and barometric pressure, and it comfirmed the issue over multiple days. I get that the 308 isn't too expensive and easily replaceable but I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this? Also,...

Yeast Starter / Starter Wort from Previous Rauchbier Brew

First post by Scott, 7 years ago

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I had something happen that some of you may find interesting...

Yeast Starter:
After fermentation I normally save sloppy slurry of the yeast, and if it's within a few months will repitch it in a yeast starter, then into my wort to make new beer. Someone from my homebrew get-together group had suggested, if making a bigger brew, put the bag into a smaller brew kettle after pulling it out of my main brew kettle, add some water and make more starter ... Normally have to boil it for a while to...

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Thank you, Scott.
That seems to be the best answer involving flavor leftovers for this thread.
Storage of that remaining starter under wort/beer or washed is another choice discussed at that link. When preparing for the next brew, make another large starter and subdivide again. Repeat as desired. 12 generations is quite a lot, but as long as it works....
I think your homebrew group's advisor/sage may have also demonstrated how hops can suppress growth of undesired bugs, but then his starter...

is FG Correct

First post by Philip321, 8 years ago

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I've brewed an Old Soldier Ale and the OG was 1.052
The FG Is 1.014
I've only taken one FG and will leave it in there until tomorrow and then take another reading

My question is:-
Is the FG at 1.014 OK

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I just put a plastic bag loosely over the lot but I've wanted something a bit more elegant...
Next time I might cut the finger off a disposable glove. Only issue with that would be that it might blow off but a pin prick in it would fix that though :drink:

Adding LME or DME to fermenter??

First post by Christin, 8 years ago

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Hello this is my third batch of beer and i missed my OG by quite a bit. My target OG was 1.046 and i only achieved 1.032. I think i may have missed my target because i milled my own grain this time around. I was wondering would it be too late to add DME or LME after three days of fermenting??(my yeast was US-05) Or do you think i should leave it alone??

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I have never done that, but the yeast would work on that too.

Did I ruin it?

First post by SQG, 8 years ago

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Looking for some guidance!

I'm a new BIAB brewer, having done some extract brewing over 20 years ago. I'm on my 3rd BIAB batch and things were going well for the first 2 days after I placed it in the fermenter. But then I was away for 2 days and came back to find the stopper and airlock had blown off and krausen on the side of the bottle (lesson learned, should have used a blow-off tube). I'm not sure how long it was like this: could have been an hour or two, but maybe up to 2 days. I cleaned...

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Believe me, I've read your posts. I hope one day to understand it all :think:

Fast ferment test and a PP trick

First post by Mad_Scientist, 8 years ago

Recently I picked up on something new I have never done until now . I got interested in the low oxygen brewing website and picked up another (cold side tip).

Ever since I have been pressure fermenting I have been just letting it ferment all the way it would go, then at FG do the closed transfer to a serving keg thing. I lost my last double batch (yes all 10 gallons) when air was sucked in due to worn out corny keg post o-rings. So to never repeat that again, it's advised to transfer when...

Process Tweaks and Aeration

First post by FlipFlopLife, 11 years ago

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I have gotten almost all my process stuff from different posts on this board, the biabacus has been awesome and every time I think I'll tweak it I realize that it is right and I am wrong and I should have just done what it suggested. I'm pretty happy with my beers so far -- 4 of them total, all of them electric, biab, no chill. What I was hoping you guys could do is look at my process and see if there are things I could tweak out. My specific question is about aeration. I wouldn't say I'm lazy...

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FFL,

Your step #7, I would leave your container out for 12-24 hours to cool down to ambient temp before putting it in the fridge. That is a big load on the fridge I would think.

This is a complicated scenario.
Yes there will be a large total BTU load to cool it, how that load is spread out (how long it will take) depends on the mass percentage it represents to already chilled mass in the unit.
So the load being spread out longer by being less of a total mass makes the load not as large for...

Pressurized fermentation using a spunding valve

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First post by Mad_Scientist, 13 years ago

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Dry yeast added and well aerated, ready to seal up.

10/23/2011 by
Mad Scientist Brewhaus , on Flickr

The blue handle keg is my dedicated 'spartanburg' keg that my spunding valve rides one.

11/21/11 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus , on Flickr

This is the counter pressure transfer in action.  This was a 14 day grain-to-glass brew!

10/5/11 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus , on Flickr

As found on the Home Brew Talk forum, from which I learned all about this technique
General...

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Very nice MS. Since moving I have gone back to my fermentation buckets until I get my dedicated brew shed built. I still ran into issues keeping pressure so I need a space and time to investigate my problems.

Newbie Fermentation question.

First post by Christin, 8 years ago

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Hello i am new to the world of brewing and I recently bought ingredients to clone my favorite brew (Barking Squirrel Lager). Being a newbie i never realized how cold lagers have to ferment. My question is how warm can saflager w34/70 yeast ferment. The coldest spot in my house is in my crawlspace (cement floor) 17C or 62.6F(spring). Do you think this would be cold enough? Also the recipe calls for 7days primary and 30 days secondary would this change with the warmer temps? My plan was to keep...

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The fermentis website has a datasheet for each yeast that offers fermentation ranges. For 34/70 they say fermentation temperature: 9-22°C (48.2-71.6°F) ideally 12-15°C (53.6-59°F) .

As well as their full homebrewing line-up

Fermenting in the Kettle

First post by Yettiman, 8 years ago

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Hi, I know this was discussed in this post

But that was 4 years ago, I was wondering if anyone had looked into it since then.

I was brewing a Hobgoblin clone (one of my favourite recipes) this weekend and my fermenter started to leak, so I transferred the wort back into the kettle and added yeast.

All seems to be going well.

I was just wonder given the recent rise in 'All in ones' like the Grainfather & Robo brew, if anyone was doing it on a regular basis?

I never Whirlpool, no point as...

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I haven't done it, but you may be interested in this blog:

Too much sediment?

First post by Ben85, 9 years ago

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Hi all
I did my first biab last Friday, using no chill to cool and started fermentation on Saturday night. Looking at the fermenter today and there seems to be a huge amount of cloudiness/sediment at the bottom. It's not overly visible on the picture, but it goes up just past the 5ltr mark and covers the tap. Is this normal at this stage of fermentation? Will it settle down or do i need to transfer to a secondary fermenter and try to lose of the sediment?

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Did you transfer everything from the kettle or did you rack the wort off of the sediment in the kettle?

Air temp vs liquor temp

First post by tullaroan, 9 years ago

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Bought a fermentation fridge and hooked up with temperature controller and heat belt (fridge is off for winter). Thermometer is taped to fermenter with polystyrene over it to try and measure temperature of liquor rather than air around it in the fridge. All well and good but was shocked to do a little test during white wine kit fermentation (21 degrees) to find ambient temperature in fridge was between 12 and 15 degrees.

Trap for young players as had put beers in there too hoping they would...

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Hello
Thanks for your replies. I am using an InkBird ITC308. I suspect the brew belt is not strong enough to heat the whole fridge. I've ordered a heating tube and little fan.
Thanks again
David

Possible contamination? Yes or no?

First post by Frkleal, 9 years ago

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Hello everyone, I've found this on secondary while I transferring to my bottling bucket.

Notice the white spots on the krausen collar and the little oil stains on beer.

I tasted the beer 3 days prior to bottling and it tasted and smelled great.

For the record, this batch of IPA had 100 grams of pellet hops used in dry hopping for about 10 days.

Should I worry?

Enviado do meu iPhone usando Tapatalk

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I never panic until it starts to smell and/or taste wrong.

Then it's flat out panic stations.

Luckily this has only occurred once.

Fermentation finished...about 6 months ago

First post by milligan, 10 years ago

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About 6 months back I did 2 BIABs and a kit. The BIAB's were no chilled in cubes and the kit was pitched straight away in a regular plastic fermented. A few weeks later I pitched the BIAB's in the cubes with the caps on then backed off slightly.

The brews were in a humid room with a clothes dryer that gets used semi-frequently. Temps over the time have probably ranged from 15c to 35c.

The kit in the fermenter was tossed as it formed a layer of mould on top. I had it covered with plastic...

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Todd,
That would be a good idea except someone might intercept this communication and use it in court...I'm thinking manslaughter at a minimum :)

On the positive side I believe botulism will do the job regardless of the quantity ingested. And I'm still going. I think 72 hours is the telling time, though.

I'm still so surprised that the samples tasted so good. I guess the co2 protective layer, the hops and the yeast doing their thing kept everything (apparently) okey dokey.

3 gallon batch - can I use the whole vial without starter?

First post by Kangarooster, 10 years ago

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Hello,

I will do a 3 gallon batch of Hefeweizen for my next brew and I wonder if I can pitch the whole Wyeast 3068 pack without making a starter? According to their webpage, the Activator yeasts are designed to be used without any starter for beers under 60 OG (mine is 48) for 5 gallon batches, so I am afraid that I will overpitch. However according to mr malty I should be OK.

What do you think? Maybe I should not use the Activator nutrient?

If using half the vial, can I save the rest in the...

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Thanks for the feedback,

I took a reading just now: 1.012 (OG=1.044). I tasted it and it tasted fine (although a little more watery and bitter than I had hoped for).

Transfering wort to fermenter : with or without trub ?

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First post by clamsy, 11 years ago

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Hi all,

After my first home brewing day Friday, here is my first post on biabrewer.info :)

I've made a search on the forum and couldn't find any post comparing the two methods : some biab brewers transfer all the wort to the fermenter, with the trub, others rack it and try to leave all the trub in the pot, and I think some people transfer all the wort through the bag or some other filter.

So what are the pros and cons of keeping the trub ? Is there a risk of having off-flavours ?

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You would maybe recover some wort from the hops but I would be surprised if it had any noticeable difference on the flavour, aroma or bitterness of a beer.

My understanding is that most of the volatiles are absorbed into the wort fairly quickly so squeezing wouldn't increase this.

And while efficiency is good it isn't the most important element of brewing. Being able to predict your efficiency for a particular grain bill helps you brew what you set out to but in terms of cost you might be...

First BIAB - Infected?

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First post by Pyanchev, 10 years ago

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I've made my first BIAB and this is the picture I've taken on 16th day of fermentation.

Please tell me this is not infected :) I've hoped this is yeast and hops on surface,
but I'm not so sure about this now...

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ShorePoints, I use 68F for the 2.0 Volumes needed for my Ales, then after 10 days the Bottles go to 50F-55F for Drinking.

The Carbonation is sometimes Low, around 1.5 Volumes, but Self opening Bottles have not Happened for 3 Years.

I do brew a 12 Pack/144oz/3L VIP, every week to 10 Days.

So records are a necessity!

Did I not add enough yeast?

First post by Kangarooster, 10 years ago

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Hi!

For my first brew I ended up with a gravity reading of 1.018 after one week of fermentation, and when I checked again after two weeks it was still 1.018. Since I was doing a small batch I only added half of yeast package (I made 10 liters). The beer had an OG of 1.052 and the yeast I used was Mangroove Jack's M79. It's worth mentioning that I didn't re-hydrate the yeast before I pitched it and it stopped bubbling after 3 days. Also the temperature fluctuated in the room, maybe in the...

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I will do that, thank you for your help!

Transfer via funnel?

First post by Shumanfoo, 10 years ago

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I used to ferment in a plastic bucket but for awhile I have preferred a glass carboy. I have used a funnel to transfer the cooled wort from the brew pot to the carboy and I pass it through a mesh strainer to catch some of the trub.

I have seen a lot of people talk about using a siphon to transfer the wort. I have heard about risks from aerating wort that is still too warm but are there other issues I should be concerned about?

I should note that my beers have had good flavor and I haven't...

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Yep, the Silicon Hose is great, just use gloves to control it.

Hot Side Aeration is a Myth!, You will collect MUCH more air into Hot Wort than Cold(which is what we need).

The time it takes for the Wort to Cool, will not Oxidize the wort, Unless you cooling over 2 weeks, and continuously bubbling air into the Wort.

Strange Brett problem

First post by rickoles, 10 years ago

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Hi everyone

I'm relatively new to brewing. I started about 2 months ago and have had 5 brew days already. I'm loving it. I jumped straight into BIAB and was eager to brew a wide variety of beer. Although in hind sight I was pretty overzealous...

The problem I have is I brewed up a basic IPA 5 days ago with an OG of 1.060 but the Wyeast 5526 Brett I used isn't starting. The weird thing is I took a sample two days ago to get a hydrometer reading and left the sample next to the fermenter to...

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Thanks for the replies!

The wort did ferment a day after cranking up the temperature and it stopped at 1.02. I've dry hopped it and am hoping to get it out of the fermenter this week to make room for something new. Currently it has a citrus like sour taste to it. My understanding is it needs time to develop. I don't have any experience with infection but it seems fine to me. I'm going to see what happens.

Thughes - It looks like I'm way out of my depth! I was considering harvesting this and...

Temp spike on third day

First post by soccerfan, 10 years ago

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My dorm fridge fermentation unit sits in the garage. We had painters doing some work at the house,
so naturally they unplugged my unit rather than the boom box next to it. I don't know when
this happened, I'm gonna guess about 9am on Tuesday, and at 7am on Wednesday I noticed and
hustled to plug it back in. My STC unit indicated that the temp inside was 29C.

Do you think it is ruined? The unit is laboring to get the wort back down to the 18C
that I had it set for, but the thermal mass of five...

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Indeed! Congrats. Isn't it a great feeling when it turns out well? I love that feeling.

Doppelbock stuck at 1.028

First post by rsandilands, 10 years ago

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Brewing a doppelbock with 34/70 yeast.

Initial fermentation took off quickly and was very active. Fermented at 11C and after a week was 65% attenuated to around 1.028 so raised the temperature to 18C for a diacetyl rest.

Note that I'm following the quick lager method here:

Now after 3 days at 18C, the gravity hasn't budged. I'm still at around 1.028 and have tried gently rousing the yeast.

I don't know what to do now. Just leave it? If the yeast have stopped working, then I'm left with a...

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what temp did you mash at?? without that any guesses are simply guesses. Recipe would help too