From Mash to Lauter (Water to Sweet Liquor)

1. The Basics of Hopping

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   First post by BIABrewer, 16 years ago

   

   [Like all, The Basics, in the General Brewing Skills section, the following is not a definitive guide. It is simply a guide that will get a new brewer under way safely and with confidence. Please advise BIABrewer of any errors. Please justify, in full, any contrary topics that you may choose to start in this forum. If well-written and justified, they will be, promoted, as best as we are able.]
   
   All brewers, new and experienced, are encouraged to start new topics in this section provided they...
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   Last post by BIABrewer
   16 years ago
2. The Basics of Mashing

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   First post by BIABrewer, 16 years ago

   

   All brewers, new and experienced, are encouraged to start new topics in this section provided they have read the below.
   
   Currently being written by BIABrewer.
   
   Overview
   
   Mashing is the process where we add the grain to our hot liquor (water) and sugars are then leached from the grain into the liquor. This liquor becomes, “sweet liquor,” during the mashing process.
   
   The temperatures and times at which grain is mashed affects some characteristics of the final beer. Some beers are mashed at...
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   Last post by BIABrewer
   16 years ago
3. FAQ: Can I do a double batch?

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   First post by BIABrewer, 16 years ago

   

   Yes. The material recommended for BIAB bags is very strong. If you have bought a BIABrewer-approved bag or made one using the instructions given here Should I Make a Bag or Can I Buy One?
   
   Similiar limitations on kettle-size and burners that apply to traditional brewing also apply to BIAB though. (see the FAQ above, “What are the advantages and disadvantages of varying size kettles?”)
   
   Whilst it isn't overly hard to pull a double-batched bag from the kettle especially with a coarser crush...
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   16 years ago
4. What should my grain crush be like?

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   First post by BIABrewer, 16 years ago

   

   Any all-grain brewer, traditional or BIAB, should view crushing the grain as aiming to break the grain open not pulverise it. Regard the grain as a container that holds sugar. You simply want to open that container.
   
   The recommendation you often read, that, with BIAB, you can crush as fine as you like, is poor advice. If you pulverise your grain or turn it into flour, you are causing two problems. The first is that the resulting beer can develop tannin flavours. These flavours come from the...
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   16 years ago
5. Mash temp and time of mash.

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   First post by Muggy Dawson, 9 years ago

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   I've been getting my water temp to 67C, usually up to 69C then adding grain in to get 67C, and maintaining this for 60mins prior to boiling. So far this has been my standard MO for all brews. Reading further though, I realise that higher or lower temps will possibly give dryer or sweeter wort. Wanting to try a mash temp at 62C to achieve a dryer finish on my next Stout should I extend the time beyond the 60min mark to say 90min?

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   To ensure the best mash we recommend 90min mashes and stirring on occasion. The stirring helps wash the sugars from the grains.
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   Last post by Lumpy5oh
   9 years ago
6. When to add specialty grains

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   First post by jube, 9 years ago

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   Hi there,
   
   Tomorrow I'm brewing a Schwartz beer and my friend recommended adding the specialty grains (carafa I, roasted barley, chocolate) in the last 30mins of the 90min mash. He says adding them to early I risk getting a sour taste from the roasted husks, in the finished beer.
   
   He recommended bring the mash temp to 70 and then adding them for 30mins. Any thoughts?
   
   (Btw his schwartz beer won gold at the nationals ​last year)
   
   The last Schwartz beer I made did turn out sour but I think it...

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   For roasted malts, I add them when I start increasing the temperature to do a mashout (and then do a 15 minutes mashout). During that time I stir the grains every 5 minutes or so.
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   Last post by tizoc
   9 years ago
7. Adding specialty grains to the mash

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   First post by J Hurdon, 9 years ago

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   Hi,
   
   I'm pretty sure this has been asked before but here goes. My water is quite alkaline.
   I was thinking (before I try all grain) about trying a partial mash with extract , base malt, and crystal.
   I am aware the crystal just needs to be steeped not mashed but...
   I think the crystal will have a tendency to bring the ph of the mash down and that is what I want to do.
   Does it make sense to add the crystal to the base malt and steep/mash it together? I have a ph meter that I can check the ph...

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   Thanks Lumpy5oh I'll go for it and see how it goes. By the way the slinkie thing is very funny. :)
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   Last post by J Hurdon
   9 years ago
8. Mash PH

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   First post by J Hurdon, 9 years ago

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   HI,
   Can someone help me to find info on this topic. I don't seem to be able to find anything on adjusting mash PH. The fact that I can't find anything leads to believe that it's not that important.
   Regards
   
   Jonathan

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   John Palmer's How to Brew online goes into details.
   
   Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
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   Last post by Mad_Scientist
   9 years ago
9. "Stuck" Fermentation hell? No. Just mash temps

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   First post by Inconceivable, 10 years ago

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   Hi all
   
   I thought I'd share my story of mashing fails that I thought for a month or more was actually stuck ferments. It wasn't, I've learned a valuable lesson, and I'd like to share it.
   
   Long story short; by not correctly controlling my mash temp I was leaving too many unfermentable sugars it would seem.
   
   I'm a new brewer starting in August '15 and here's what I encountered recently:
   
   Batch #009 - German Pils (Brewing Classic Styles): my OG 1044, target FG: 1009, my FG: 1019
   Batch #010 -...

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   My beer is too sweat, so it must be the hops fault. I have to put the blame somewhere, it's not ME... :lol:
   
   Naughty HOPS.
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   Last post by Mad_Scientist
   10 years ago
10. Where sugars come from and go to.

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    First post by PistolPatch, 10 years ago

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    Yesterday I received a PM that was essentially asking how to work out where the sugars come from and go in the production of sweet liquor. The PM finished with...
    My foggy brain, cannot figure a way to measure the sweet liquor left in the spent grains.
    The main error the questioner was  making is an easy one to make; he was trying to find the answer to the above by weighing. Not only did he weigh the spent grain, he even dried it and weighed that as well.
    
    The problem is that when you weigh...

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    Just had a question via PM re the files above having the 'Adjust Volume Loss from Lauter to:' field set to 0.4. I'd done the first half of the diagram before noticing that I'd used a file with that default in it.
    
    0.4 would be a good default to use for a stove-top brewer using a small grain bill of a few kilos or about 5 pounds. The default the BIABacus uses is a bit over 0.6 and is a good place to start for say a grain bill of around 5 kgs / 11 pounds. Double batches or really heavy beers...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    10 years ago
11. Does adding water after mash hurt efficiency?

    17 Replies 27977 Views

    First post by Primavera, 10 years ago

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    Title pretty much says it all.
    
    I hold back 4L of water to be able to get a 5 gallon / 19L batch out of a 10 gallon / 38L kettle.
    
    I am varying the amount of water added before and during the boil so that I hit my OG number exactly.
    
    VIF on my last batch was low (added less water due to low gravity - a little over 4 gallons / 16L - meaning I didn't get great efficiency.
    
    Could the thicker mash be hurting my efficiency?
    
    Thanks
    
    Chris

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    Then I get to start all over with a new recipe.
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    Last post by Primavera
    10 years ago
12. Those tiny little pumps for mash recirculation

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    First post by Mad_Scientist, 10 years ago

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    Nice tiny little pumps. Anyone using one?
    
    Makes me want to get one ---
    
    I believe they are all TopsFlo brand ( TopsFlo.com ) and then re-branded
    to us solar pumps; onclick= window.open(this.href);return false;
    
    I like the ones in the solar water pump section, all of these
    are 1/2 NPT or BSP threads. This one is the top dog; onclick= window.open(this.href);return false; ... cts_id=241
    
    The pump pictured can be found in the circulating pump section of the main link,
    caution about the thread size...

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    They work pretty well and handle the temperatures we use. The two main problems I found with them are that you must recirculate hot water through them after you brew or the sugar gums them up pretty quickly. The pump housing is also plastic so they can snap under the thread if you put any pressure on them. Other than that they have a nice medium flow rate and they are pretty cheap to buy.
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    Last post by Aces high
    10 years ago
13. Crisis in the brewery: Low attenuation, sweet beer

    9 Replies 20182 Views

    First post by Houdini, 11 years ago

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    Hello all,
    
    When I switched from extract/partial mash to BIAB about five batches ago, my beer went from good to sweet and unattenuated. I've ruled out yeast health and fermentation temperature control, which leaves wort fermentability. I recalibrated my mashing thermometer. It was reading 4 degrees F too low (so I was mashing 4 degrees above the target temperature). I've been mashing at 150 degrees for 90 minutes. I don't have means to measure PH - I tried the paper strips but did not believe...

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    My money is on mash temps too high.....
    
    ---Todd
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    Last post by thughes
    11 years ago
14. Links to Mashing Experiments and Results

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    First post by joshua, 11 years ago

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    Good Day,
    
    To show some Ideas, Experiments, and Results, related to Mashing
    
    Please see..
    
    for The Theory of Mashing
    
    And a link to the experiments..
    
    And the Results of Mash Time Dependency of Wort Fermentability at
    
    I hope this can start clearing the Muddy waters...

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    Pat, those who have not learned mashing, this is a good Example of what it means.
    
    How many trials preformed is an important question.
    
    There a have only been a few of our Members that have Mashed for a LONG time, and measured the Gravity, only Todd Hughes posted mash data to 106 minutes.
    
    It does Show, the Gravity is mostly Finished between 60 and 90 minutes, and that after 90minutes the mash is still going, and while Gravity does not Increase, the fermentability does.
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    Last post by joshua
    11 years ago
15. Gelatinization Temperatures and Why

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    First post by joshua, 11 years ago

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    Gelatinization Temperature Chart
    
    Starch gelatinization causes Starch to quickly break down to Amylopectin and Amylose, which are both long-chain carbohydrates.
    Then Alpha-Amylase, By acting at random locations along the starch chain,
    break down the long-chain carbohydrates, ultimately yielding maltotriose and maltose from Amylose,
    AND maltose, glucose and limit dextrin from Amylopectin.
    
    Because it can act anywhere on the substrate, Alph-Amylase tends to be faster-acting than...

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    That is what we get when we Crush the Grain, instead of Grinding it....
    
    We don't grind the Grain, as everyone Hopefully Knows
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    Last post by joshua
    11 years ago
16. To dunk or not to dunk, that is the question

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    First post by Yettiman, 12 years ago

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    Hi chaps,
    
    Am now getting close to double figures on my brew days, and am starting to think I have my brew day, sorted, not the brews just the order I should be doing things :), and would like to start to polish my method.
    
    I normally don't dunk, just lift out the bag, squeeze and go straight to boil.
    
    I have read else where it can create better beer if you 'hold back' a little of the strike water for a dunk.
    
    Your thoughts and advice, gratefully received.
    
    Yettiman

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    Great info. Thanks! However, there's a huge section on the board where Ralph demonstrates maxiBIAB and he dunks. It's a bit confusing because it's presented as a how to for maxiBIAB but it seems it's not best way to do it. Am I missing something? As Mad-Scientist says above, it is not ideal.
    
    Re-read post #4 above and the links within carefully. Basically any time you stray from full-volume brewing (simultaneous mash and sparge brewing - what pure BIAB is) you are going to end up with a cost...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    11 years ago
17. A link to a Mash Rest Description Chart

    4 Replies 13979 Views

    First post by joshua, 11 years ago

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    This has been out of print for a while, so, get it while it is available!!!

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    Yes, there are Quick Oats, Flaked Oats-Wheat-Barley-Corn , and Torrified Wheat,
    
    Corn Meal/Polenta /Breakfast Corn Flakes are Much more available and Cheaper than Flaked Corn.
    
    Raw Oats/Groats have Much Better Flavor than Rolled/Flaked Oats.
    
    Dryed Barley has A great flavor, that is Lost when Malted.
    
    And for a DRY Pilsner, 30%-40% Cereal Mashed Rice is a way the make Lite beer.
    
    That is why I Posted the Gelatinization Temperatures and Why topic at
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    Last post by joshua
    11 years ago
18. Measuring mash temperature

    4 Replies 14956 Views

    First post by onkeltuka, 11 years ago

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    I've done four brews now, and it's coming clearer with each one that taking temps is a very complicated issue.
    
    So, you have a large kettle with a bag full of grains in it, the whole mass is heated from the bottom up, but in between there's that large layer of grain. So when you want to mash at 66, where do you measure that from?
    
    In all my brews the temps have gone down a few degrees more after adding the grains, than what the BIABicus calculates. After that I turn the flame on again to bring...

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    Short on time but this might help as well. So, you have a large kettle with a bag full of grains in it, the whole mass is heated from the bottom up, but in between there's that large layer of grain. So when you want to mash at 66, where do you measure that from? RULE: You must always agitate/stir the mash before taking its temperature otherwise you are just measuring a pocket (as Contrarian mentioned.) In all my brews the temps have gone down a few degrees more after adding the grains, than...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    11 years ago
19. De-Hulling Grains - Barley

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    First post by joshua, 11 years ago

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    There has be Discussion on using De-Hulled Malted Barley.
    
    The Husks Provide most of the Color that Wort has. But, BIAB uses a bag, not a Mash tun, so do we Really need Husks???
    
    If you have an old Corona Mill, there is a YouTube video on how to convert that Mill to a De-huller.
    
    Lehmans - Removing hulls from grain

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    Good day, I just recieved an E=mall from Breiss Brewing.
    
    The Malted Barley Flours are WHOLE Grain.....Husks and All. They used for Baking Products.
    
    We can grind our Grain to Flour, and Make Bread and Pizza crusts, too.
    
    The flour won't work for BIAB, or even 3 vessel brewing.
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    Last post by joshua
    11 years ago
20. When to take "into boil"-gravity?

    5 Replies 14451 Views

    First post by onkeltuka, 11 years ago

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    The title says it all; at what point should I draw that sample?

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    Or you can rattle PP's chain and just use a refractometer!! :angry:
    
    :P
    
    Another thing to remember is that 'Gravity into Boil (GIB)' should always be coupled with a 'Volume into Boil (VIB)' measurement as what we really want to get from these two numbers is a pre-check on our kettle efficiency. VIB and GIB are hard numbers to measure so we can't give them too much weight. All they can do is act as a pre-check, our first kettle efficiency reading.
    
    Anyone who has tried to take a Volume into...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    11 years ago
21. Overnight dough in versus overnight mash

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    First post by Homemade, 11 years ago

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    Hi all.
    
    For various reasons I am investigating the possibility of starting the brew day the night before.
    
    I have read a few threads on overnight mashing but would like to pose a few thoughts/questions in relation to mashing hot versus doughing in cold and then mashing the next day.
    
    The overnight mashing I have read seems to centre around doughing in at mash temp as normal then insulating and leaving the mash overnight. Then next day heating up to mash out and moving on with boil etc as...

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    In my experience overnight mashes gave me thinner beer and lower FG. I stopped because if this, however it may have been due to temp loss causing prolonged periods at lower mash temps, which won't affect you with a braumeister. I now mash out and pull grain before bed then boil on day2 and have brewed excellent beer this way. Also, none of my overnight mashes caused any sourness and sometimes temp dropped to around 50C.
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    Last post by Lars
    11 years ago
22. Dry hopping procedures

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    • 1
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    First post by Lylo, 13 years ago

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    I am trying to settle into one consistant dry hopping regimen.
    Can anyone everyone recommend their favorite?
    I am talking,when,where( fermentor,keg),clearing methods etc.
    I would say that clearing is my biggest issue,it seems to be adding weeks to my turnaround,even when using pellets in a sack.
    I know BobBrews has a lot of practice in this and I am sure others will be able to chime in with some coherent advice! :lol:

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    nicko,
    
    Dry hopping can bring a real kick in the nose for some lackluster beers. Another gun in your brewing arsenal. It's just a tool to use while building a beer.
    
    Thanks Bob, it certainly was with this beer, I must find someone that's had the CraftBrewer Nelson Summer Ale *cough* Pistol *cough* to find out how it ideally should taste. Next time I'm in Brisvegas I'll head to the CB pub instead of the German club, it won't be easy ignoring those pork knuckles and Four Pines Kolsch on tap,...
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    11 years ago
23. Big Beer Efficiency

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    First post by AFewTooMany, 11 years ago

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    Hi, wondering if anyone has some insight on increasing the efficiency when using a large grain bill?
    
    I'm pretty new to AG brewing but have been getting 75% efficiency or above so far. Wanting to try an imperial stout at around 9% abv and BIABacus is showing 62% efficiency which is a big drop.
    
    Is it best to increase water volume to get a thinner mash and boil for longer to get down to the volume you want?
    
    Or is batch sparging / rinsing the bag the way to go?
    
    Or just compensate with a bit...

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    Instead of all the extra electricity, time and effort a bit of extra grain should do the trick. I'm not too sure how to write this one AFTM, so bear with me...
    
    If you use other software, besides the BIABacus, a bit of extra grain will easily solve your problem because all other software works on the myth that for every x weight of grain added you will get y weight of sugar extracted. It's simply not the case. That is like me saying to you that no matter how dirty your jeans are, I will be able...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    11 years ago
24. "Tun Cosy" pot/kettle insulator for mashing

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    First post by Brew'n Bear, 12 years ago

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    Hi folks,
    
    Thought I'd share my removable Tun Cosy for keeping mash temp steady in a stainless steel pot. It's made of expanding foam and it's dead cheap to make. Used it for a few brews now and my mashes drop less than 1 deg C every time. Beats wrapping towels around the mash!
    
    Here's an instructable I did for it. Probably better to link than post all the photos here :geek:
    
    Cheers!

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    I'm not implying that mashing in a cooler wouldn't be full volume though :dunno: Just saying that if you want to stick to one vessel then you're not going to have the luxury of doing your mash (full volume or not) in a pre-insulated container. I am having another crack hear Bear. I wrote some long post here 48 hours ago but deleted it because I was tired and drunk :).
    
    Firstly an insulated container should not be viewed as a luxury. That vessel, if used as a mash tun, will unless you agitate it...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    12 years ago
25. I don't have 3 hands!

    8 Replies 18024 Views

    First post by 2trout, 12 years ago

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    I always brew by myself. It seems that many thing in brewing seem to be easiest if you have three hands.
    
    I like to pour my grains into the mash water at a bit of a height, say 12-18 (30-50cm). I feel like its prevents dough balls. I also like to agitate the mash as I add the grains.
    
    So 2 hands to hold and pour the grain and 1 more hand to move the water around...... :think: :scratch:
    
    Got a good solution?
    
    Trout

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    PP, thanks for your insite into why I really dont need to stir while I pour in my grains, but it is just one of those things.... I just HAVE to do it :dunno: .
    
    So this is my latest idea for pouring grain.... I have two containers that hold about 11 pounds of grain AND fit under my grinder( by design I may add :smoke: .) I am going to add a simple handle to the side each container! ind of like a giant beer mug!
    
    trout
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    Last post by 2trout
    12 years ago