New Buffalo GL349

Post #1 made 3 years ago
Hi Guy's I ordered a 40 litre Buffalo CC193 but got sent the new version which is the GL349 as the CC193 was discontinued in January. The tap hole is different but that can be sorted with a QMAX cutter, my question is this, if the Thermal fuse blows on a rolling boil how do I replace it? On the underside of the Buffalo is one screw and that's it,there is another screw by the power cable but it looks like it is holding the cable in place. Short of taking a crow bar to it I can't seem to get the damn thing off. How do I get to the element, thermal cut out and thermal fuse on this model? HELP! :sad: :headhit:
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Post #3 made 3 years ago
Yep found. Thanks. The thermal fuse is different to the old Buffalo, this one is in a metal sheath and only attached by one metal wire that comes out of one end of the sheath (crimped) and goes into the top of the temperature control dial. Could someone please let me know how to change the fuse or bypass it as I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to this. I have bypassed the thermal cut out, that was easy enough but I don't really know much about thermal fuses except how they work. Many thanks fellas.

Post #4 made 3 years ago
That's not the fuse, that's the thermostat. In the old version the fuse was a bit of sheathed wire retained by a bracket on one of the bolts holding the element in.
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Post #5 made 3 years ago
Unless they have radically redesigned the unit I would still expect to see the following of some sort:
BUFFALO THERMOSTAT.jpg
BUFFALO SENSOR.jpg
BUFFALO FUSE.jpg
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Last edited by mally on 07 Aug 2015, 15:34, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #6 made 3 years ago
Ahh so it's the sensor. Thanks for that. Should I put that back inside as I moved it out of the way? I cannot see where the fuse is but will have another look. Many thanks.

Post #7 made 3 years ago
Depends If you want to use the built in temperature control or not. Be careful not to kink the wire though, it's a capillary type won't work once bent.
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Post #8 made 3 years ago
It has been a while, but from memory;

If the fuse blows, you get nothing (no power).
If the thermostat trips you will get a red light.
If the sensor trips (overtemp) you get an orange light.

Mine used to overtemp trip a couple of times during 90 minutes boiling. I would then use my mash paddle to help circulate the wort in a psychological attempt to try and cool the base more quickly. It would always kick back in after a few minutes though.

I have never had a red light or fuse blow.

You can just make out in the picture that the sensor has been wrapped with some silicon tubing. This reduces the chance of overtemp trips, but will leave your thermostat dial even further from its printed temps (mine is 0-110C).
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #11 made 3 years ago
Adonwar, I do not have a Buffalo CC193 Boiler, But I do have American HotPlates.

That 'Number 6' Domino piece and the device attached to the Heater Surface, is a relay unit and temperature switch, that will Cut-Out if the Heater Overheats, the same thing as the Thermal Fuse your looking for.

My guess is the switch is Closed(shorted) when the heater is Ok, and Opens when it Overheats.

Most likely a "Safety Device" to prevent damage when the Boiler runs Dry.

JMHO.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #12 made 3 years ago
Sorry I should have mentioned I have already bypassed the thermal cut out switch in this photo. The domino piece(ceramic block) is what I used to connect the live to live and neutral to neutral. That safety device is now redundant. On the old buffalo cc193 there was a thermal fuse that was giving brewers grief until they bypassed it or upgraded it. I can't seem to see it on the new model. Thanks for the help guys I appriciate it.

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Post #13 made 3 years ago
Nothing looks obvious.

Have you tried "palpating" along all the cables?
Maybe under the thick white sheath at the bottom of your pic too?
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

New Buffalo GL349

Post #14 made 3 years ago
I had a look but it seems like just the power cable. Seems a but strange that they would take away a safety device though. Also I have ordered some 3mm silicone tubing. Should I put it the whole length of the thermostat sensor or just in the middle like the picture shows in this thread? Once done I want to leave the base on and not take it off again unless I have too.

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Post #15 made 3 years ago
To be honest, I'm not sure which would be better.
I think the main function is to remove the direct contact, but the exposed parts on the "short" version may pick up more heat from convection?
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
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