Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2252 made 1 year ago
Edit Note: I updated the attached BIABacus for a second measuring of my kettle dimensions. 

BIABrewer,

This was originally a 5 gallon extract recipe. My kettle was not big enough for a full boil.  I don’t think I have enough kettle head space. I would like to brew the max amount in my kettle. I have 5 and 6 gallon glass carboys. 

How do I convert the light dry malt extract to grain?  Internet research tells me I need approximately double the weight in grain of the DME weight, i.e. 7 lbs of DME should be substituted with 14 lbs of grain. That seems kinda high though. Thoughts?

I originally bottled this recipe. However, I want to keg this recipe, if possible. I’m planning on using 5 gallon corny kegs for my homebrew.  This will be my first time kegging beer too.  Can I keg less than 5 gallons in a 5 gallon corny keg? Sounds ripe for disaster. Do I have any options here or should I stick with bottles until I can do a full boil for 5 gallons.

I have populated much of the details into the attached BIABacus, including additional details from my batch not included in the recipe. Let me know what changes I need to make to the BIABacus. I attempted to keep pretty detailed notes on this first batch. Let me know if there are any pertinent details omitted.

Thank you,
Nathan


OVERVIEW
Style:                                   West Coast IPA
Name:
Yeast:                                  Dry Safale US-05 11.5g
Fermentation Temperature:  71
Original Gravity:                  1.072
Total IBU's:                           Do not know
Colour (EBC):                       Do not know
Efficiency at End of Boil:    Do not know
Mash Length (mins):           N/A - extract brew
Steeped specialty grains: 30min
Boil Length (mins):             60min
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Kettle
Source/Credits:

Volumes etc.
Your Vessel Volume (L or gal):             7 gallons
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in):          13.5in
Water Required (L or gal):                   3.2gallon at start of boil
Mash Temperature (C or F):                  N/A
Steep temperature                             165
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal):           2.5-2.75
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal):         5 gallons
Brew Length (L or gal):                         Boiled for 60 minutes (not sure what this is asking for)
Total Grain Bill (g or oz):                       7.7lbs Dry Malt Extract, 12oz Crystal, 8oz Cara Pils

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes
Hop 1:  0.5oz Zythos pellet - 9.8AA% - 60 min
Hop 2:  1 oz Citra pellet - 12.7AA% - 18 min
Hop 3:  1 oz Mosaic flower - 11.7AA% - 10 min
Hop 4:  1oz Columbus flower - 13.4 AA% - 5 min
Hop 5:  1oz Citra pellet - 12.7AA% - dry hopped after 7 days in fermenter, for 7 additional days in fermenter
Hop 6:  1oz Mosaic flower - 11.7AA% -  dry hopped after 7 days in fermenter, for 7 additional days in fermenter

Adjuncts/Minerals/Finings etc
Adjunct:
Mineral:
Finings:  1 Whirfloc tablet
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Last edited by Mr_Clark on 24 Dec 2016, 00:11, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2253 made 1 year ago
Omg.
I think i need a homebrew.  
I have just finished reading all 91pgs plus additional links in this thread. :headhit:
I sure do hope i have finally gotten my head around the biabcus.
Ps. PP. I can't wait to see the next update you spoke of a few months back.

Once i have finished sorting out my system. I will post my file for review.
But i am hopeful it will be all good. 

Thanks for all the long hard hours you guys have put into this for us newbies.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2254 made 1 year ago
Hello all!
Planning my first all grain, first BIAB later this month. Im doing the all amarillo recipe and have made all the basic adjustments in BIABacus to the best of my knowledge and understanding. I would greatly appreciate any feedback with what I have entered.
A few specific things I have questions about:
I would like to dry hop - should the FPL be increased to account for this and how much if so?
The boil off rate seems high - although I have never brewed in this kettle, I thought it would be lower than this. I understand it is best to overestimate though.
Super excited to start this brew. Cheers! [td][center][b]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3T RECIPE REPORT[/b][/center][/td] [td][center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center][/td] [td][center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info for the latest version.)[/center][/td] [td][center][b]NRB's All Amarillo APA - Batch A0[/b][/center][/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Recipe Overview[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Brewer: BIABrewer - Credit NRB[/td] [td]Style: American Pale Ale[/td] [td]Source Recipe Link: [/td] [td]ABV: 5.6% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Original Gravity (OG): 1.058[/td] [td]IBU's (Tinseth): 36.2[/td] [td]Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.62[/td] [td]Colour: 17.6 EBC = 8.9 SRM[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 83.4 %[/td] [td]Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 75.1 %[/td] [td] [/td] [td][i]Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)[/i][/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Times and Temperatures[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Mash: 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F[/td] [td]Boil: 90 min[/td] [td]Ferment: 10 days at 18 C = 64.4 F[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Volumes & Gravities[/b][/td] [td](Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)[/td] [td]The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Total Water Needed (TWN): 29.39 L = 7.76 G[/td] [td]Volume into Boil (VIB): 27.61 L = 7.29 G @ 1.041[/td] [td]Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 18.91 L = 4.99 G @ 1.058[/td] [td]Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 17.03 L = 4.5 G @ 1.058[/td] [td]Volume into Packaging (VIP): 15.77 L = 4.17 G @ 1.015 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info (needs link)[/td] [td] [/td] [td]76.9% Fawcett Spring Pale Ale Malt (6.5 EBC = 3.3 SRM)   3415 grams = 7.53 pounds[/td] [td]15.4% Weyermann German Munich (17.2 EBC = 8.7 SRM)   683 grams = 1.51 pounds[/td] [td]7.7% Baird's Carastan (78.6 EBC = 39.9 SRM)   342 grams = 0.75 pounds[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]The Hop Bill[/b] (Based on Tinseth Formula)[/td] [td] [/td] [td]17.6 IBU Amarillo Pellets (7.7%AA)  18.3 grams = 0.644 ounces at  60 mins[/td] [td]13.6 IBU Amarillo Pellets (7.7%AA)  23.3 grams = 0.823 ounces at  20 mins[/td] [td]5.1 IBU Amarillo Pellets (7.7%AA)  26.4 grams = 0.93 ounces at  5 mins[/td] [td]0 IBU Amarillo Pellets (7.7%AA)  91.3 grams = 3.22 ounces at  0 mins (Dry Hopped)[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Mash Steps[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full-Volume Mash):  Saccharifiaction for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Strike Water Needed (SWN): 29.97 L = 7.92 G 66.7 C = 152.1 F[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Mashout for for 0 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Miscellaneous Ingredients[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]0.61 Whirfloc Tablet (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity[/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Chilling & Hop Management Methods[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Hopsock Used: Y (Pulled 0 mins after boil end.)[/td] [td] [/td] [td]Chilling Method: Immersion Chiller (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Fermentation & Conditioning[/b][/td] [td] [/td] [td]Fermentation: Safale - US-05 for 10 days at 18 C = 64.4 F[/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td]Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5[/td] [td]Serving Temp: 5 C = 41 F[/td] [td]Condition for 14 days.[/td] [td]Consume within 6 months.[/td] [td] [/td] [td][b]Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer[/b][/td] [td] [/td]
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2255 made 1 year ago
https://www.maltosefalcons.com/recipes/ ... tra-saison

I'm trying to do this Saison in a BIAB style this Friday...I need some help with the Mash...do I step it or not? Anything else I'm missing or did in error? I'm not sure how the FG is calculated as it is different than the original recipe. Thank you for any help/guidance!
Batch A0 - Saison Citra.xls
Saison Citra Recipe Overview

Brewer: Jeremy35
Style: Saison
Source Recipe Link: https://www.maltosefalcons.com/recipes/ ... tra-saison
ABV: 5.8% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.06
IBU's (Tinseth): 29
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.48
Colour: 16.7 EBC = 8.5 SRM

Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 80.9 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 69.3 %

Note: This is a Multi-Step Mash - See 'Mash Steps' Below

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 30 mins at 52 C = 125.6 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 7 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Volumes & Gravities
(Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)
The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/

Total Water Needed (TWN): 34.84 L = 9.2 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 32.38 L = 8.55 G @ 1.047
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 24.5 L = 6.47 G @ 1.06
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 21 L = 5.55 G @ 1.06
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 19.45 L = 5.14 G @ 1.015 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to www.biabrewer.info (needs link)

74% Belgian Pilsner Malt (3.2 EBC = 1.6 SRM) 4540 grams = 10.01 pounds
17% Vienna Malt (7 EBC = 3.6 SRM) 1046 grams = 2.31 pounds
9% Cara-wheat (92 EBC = 46.7 SRM) 551 grams = 1.21 pounds
0% 4oz Corn Sugar (1 EBC = 0.5 SRM) 0 grams = 0 pounds!

The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

9.6 IBU Citra Pellets (12%AA) 8.4 grams = 0.298 ounces at 60 mins
19.4 IBU Citra Pellets (12%AA) 28.2 grams = 0.996 ounces at 20 mins
0 IBU Citra (at FO) Pellets (12%AA) 21.2 grams = 0.747 ounces at 0 mins

Mash Steps

Mash Type: Multi-Step Mash - First Step: Mash In for 30 mins at 52 C = 125.6 F

Strike Water Needed (SWN): 35.53 L = 9.39 G 52.6 C = 126.7 F
for 60 mins at 64.5 C = 148.1 F
for 20 mins at 76 C = 168.8 F

Mashout for for 0 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F

Miscellaneous Ingredients

Chilling & Hop Management Methods
Chilling Method: Immersion Chiller (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation & Conditioning
Fermentation: Wyeast 3711 French Saison for 7 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Serving Temp: 5 C = 41 F
Condition for 14 days.
Consume within 6 months.

Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer

END OF REPORT
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Last edited by jeremy35 on 10 May 2017, 08:20, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2257 made 1 year ago
Oops! Looks like we've let this thread slide on the last few questions :idiot:

I'll come back to you later today Jeremy.

Whipsips and Mr Clarke, sorry you didn't get an answer here. Did you get yourselves sorted?

Homebrewjp: Amazing effort. I wonder what the update I was speaking about was? Got a link? :)
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2260 made 1 year ago
Hi Jeremy,

Firstly, nice job on your file ;).

Like most recipes you stumble across, the one you are copying lacks important information however there is enough there to work with so that's fine - more on this in Sections C and D below. Assuming you want to duplicate the original recipe given in the link in the file (http://homebrewacademy.com/summer-saison/) we need to change a few things...

Section B

Incorrect link in Recipe Credits: Oops, I started writing this post based on that link and was scratching my head there for a while :) (Glad that wasn't the recipe you were trying to duplicate as it can't be copied - there is some major error in it, there is no where near enough grain in it.)

Section C

1. On the left side of Section C you should have the percentages of the original recipe as they give no weights.
2. The original recipe gives percentages for the malts but a weight for the sugar syrup which is annoying. It means the recipe can't be inputted into software without advanced skills and some guessing. I'm also unsure what difference that amount of corn sugar would even make in flavour? I've done the best I can in the file.

Section D

The original recipe just says "Batch Size" = 6 gal and does not give an efficiency figure of any sort. Nor do we know what IBU formula is being used. Combine this with only percentage of malts being supplied and we are really stuck here in being able to duplicate this recipe.

All we can do here is make a best guess on the VAW. I'm going for 6 gallons of hot wort which, after cooling is 5.76 Gal or . We can do no more than that.

When you know the AA% of the hops you buy/have bought, put them on the right hand side of Section D.

Mashing Steps

Just lift the bag and stir occasionally during your temperature rises. Or leave bag and agitate constantly, whatever is easiest with your set-up.

I noticed in the link, you asked a question there about your friend with the Rubbermaid Cooler. To step mash, he would have to do this buy starting with a thick mash and then adding very hot water to each step to get to the next temperature which is a PITA. You also need a step mash calculator for that. If I were him, I would just go for the single infusion step at  for the same time as you mash which will be about 110 mins plus 20 mins in total for the temp rises.

Also, you don't need to be constantly agitating (recirculating) during each step - just give it an occassional agitation and temperature check.

I think that's the best we can do here Jeremy ;),
PP
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2261 made 1 year ago
PistolPatch wrote:
1 year ago
Oops! Looks like we've let this thread slide on the last few questions :idiot:

I'll come back to you later today Jeremy.

Whipsips and Mr Clarke, sorry you didn't get an answer here. Did you get yourselves sorted?

Homebrewjp: Amazing effort. I wonder what the update I was speaking about was? Got a link? :)
After going through 91 pages, i really dont remember how far it was mentioned. :argh:
But to be honest, i am very happy with the current version, so no worries. :champ:
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2262 made 1 year ago
Thanks PP for the response! I really like this calculator!! :thumbs:

Sorry I missed the link change...fixed now. I also fixed my KFL losses to 2 Liters as I had minimal losses on my first batch.

I finally found the spot that adjusts FG in section H. Their recipe shows 1.060 OG and 1.004 FG. To get that I'd need attenuation of 94%. Final sheet and response/questions below:
Batch A0 - Saison Citra - Final.xls
PistolPatch wrote:
1 year ago

Section C

1. On the left side of Section C you should have the percentages of the original recipe as they give no weights. Ok, I see the technique now. Thanks!

2. The original recipe gives percentages for the malts but a weight for the sugar syrup which is annoying. It means the recipe can't be inputted into software without advanced skills and some guessing. I'm also unsure what difference that amount of corn sugar would even make in flavour? I've done the best I can in the file. I was stuck on the sugar also. We're still debating if we use it or not.

Section D

The original recipe just says "Batch Size" = 6 gal and does not give an efficiency figure of any sort. Nor do we know what IBU formula is being used. Combine this with only percentage of malts being supplied and we are really stuck here in being able to duplicate this recipe.

All we can do here is make a best guess on the VAW. I'm going for 6 gallons of hot wort which, after cooling is 5.76 Gal or . We can do no more than that. Good point! All we can do with what they provided.

When you know the AA% of the hops you buy/have bought, put them on the right hand side of Section D. Thanks, added them at 13.4


Mashing Steps

Just lift the bag and stir occasionally during your temperature rises. Or leave bag and agitate constantly, whatever is easiest with your set-up. I have the spacer on the bottom of the kettle. Over 1 inch (3cm) I think. Can I leave the bag down and stir occasionally or still constantly?

I noticed in the link, you asked a question there about your friend with the Rubbermaid Cooler. To step mash, he would have to do this buy starting with a thick mash and then adding very hot water to each step to get to the next temperature which is a PITA. You also need a step mash calculator for that. If I were him, I would just go for the single infusion step at  for the same time as you mash which will be about 110 mins plus 20 mins in total for the temp rises. I think he'll do your recommendation! Thanks!!

Also, you don't need to be constantly agitating (recirculating) during each step - just give it an occassional agitation and temperature check. I'll do that, thanks!

I think that's the best we can do here Jeremy ;),
PP
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2265 made 1 year ago
Thanks MS - I had the 'B' for 'Boil Only' on my first draft before I realised I was using the wrong link and then on my second draft, the one I uploaded, not only forgot to add that but also to correct the faulty link that Jeremy has now corrected :P.

Jeremy, re your spacer question: With the spacer on the bottom of the kettle, while that will stop a bag burning, it won't stop the grist being exposed to temperature extremes in a lot of set-ups. See my crappy pic below?

If you have a spacer/cake- rack/false bottom, and your bag of grist lies upon it completely, when you apply heat, you'll soon hear some strange noises coming from your kettle. That is actually the noise of the sweet liquor trapped under the spacer becoming so hot, it boils. So, you end up exposing the bottom of your grist/crushed grain to boiling temps whilst the top of it remains 'cool'.

So the answer to your question is one of judgement ranging from; constant agitation with no spacer through to occasional agitation when your bag is hanging so that the grist is surrounded completely by the sweet liquor.

:peace:
PP
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2266 made 1 year ago
PP, thanks for the graphics and explanation! I'll keep that in mind next time. Just finished the brew. Hit the 1.060 as did my buddy in San Jose. Though his water volume was a bit off (low). I hit about 74% EAW. Did get the 5.5 gallons into the fermenter.

It was a bit of a challenge to do the step mash. Probably about 5C (69C) over for about 30 minutes of the 2nd step (over shot). Other stages were good.

Sample tasted great...looking forward to the final version!

5.5G in a 7G Fermentor:
saison-beer.jpg
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2267 made 1 year ago
Jeremy, appreciate you letting us know the result :salute:

I'd expect your buddy to be a bit lower than your result as a bag drains a lot better than a mash tun and you would, with your mash steps, have gained a bit more extraction as well. So, assuming you boiled in identical kettles (had the same evaporation rate) he probably had a bit less volume at the beginning of the boil at a bit lower gravity than you. After the boil, you ended up with the same gravity but he had lower volume. (The same result could have occurred for several different reasons, ending up with identical gravity should be treated as coincidence - more info on "gravity points" in this post I've just written.)

Re the temp over-shoot, getting used to how your kettle handles flame additions can take a while if you have a "heavy" set-up. I have such a set-up (heavy based kettle, gas burner and steel stand) and, it's amazing how much heat continues to flow into your brew after you turn the flame off! I still get stuck on it if I'm not focusing.

Sounds like all went nicely though :thumbs:
PP
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2268 made 1 year ago
Hi all,

So I think i am ready to embark on my first BIAB. I have a the homebrew beer book by Greg Hughes who is behind BrewUk. I have my eye on the Elderflower Ale recipe and would like to adapt it for my Burco Boiler. Here is a photo of the recipe... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzG2p ... VRak0xNHBj

The details in the book are as follows...

OVERVIEW

Style: Tawny coloured ale
Name: Elderflower Ale
Yeast: Wyeast 1275 Thames Valley Ale
Fermentation Temperature: 20 C
Original Gravity: 1045
Total IBU's: 36.6
Colour (EBC): 13.5
Efficiency at End of Boil: This isn't included in my recipe... final gravity reads 1011
Mash Length (mins): 1 hr
Boil Length (mins): 1 hr 10 min
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Urn
Source/Credits: Original recipe can be found in 'home-brew beer' by Greg Hughes
Notes/Instructions/Comments: Tawny coloured and with a malty flavour, the dried elderflowers added to the boil give this ale a subtle yet unmistakably fruity finish, with a hint of peach.

Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 27 L
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 35 cm
Water Required (L or gal): 31.5 L
Mash Temperature (C or F): 65 C
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 27 L
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 27 L (Not sure about this one, isn't on recipe. However the height of my fermenter from bottom to the rim is 38 cm, the max fill mark is at 30 cm - not sure if I can exceed this!)
Brew Length (L or gal): 21.3 L (Also not sure about this one, sorry)
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 4416 g

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Pale Ale Malt (Any type) - 4.3 kg
Grain 2: Crystal malt - 100 g
Grain 3: Chocolate malt - 16 g

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1: Challenger - 7% - 31.5 IBUs - 56 g at start of boil
Floral addition: Dried Elderflowers - 0 IBUs - 15 g at for last 15 mins
Hop 2: Fuggle - 4.5% - 5.1 IBUs - 28 g for last 10 mins
Hop 3: Challenger - 7% - 0.0 IBUs - 17 g at turn off

Adjuncts/Minerals/Finings etc

Adjunct:
Mineral:
Finings: Protofloc 1 tsp for last 15 mins of boil

Fermentation

Ferment at 20 C and condition for four weeks at 12 C
Last edited by Milesb0801 on 06 Jul 2017, 05:02, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2269 made 1 year ago
Hi Miles,

It looks like you are using an old template for a recipe report based on the now redundant "The Calculator." That's the site's fault, not yours.

Can you have a crack at filling out as much of The BIABacus as possible and then post your file here? Just have a crack at Sections A, B, C and D. (The BIABacus has replaced "The Calculator" and you can download a blank version from here - the BIABacus Pre-Release thread.)

Some of the "stickies" in this forum, marked with green arrows below, might also be of help.

We'll look forward to helping you get your first brew planned :peace:
PP

P.S. My browser is playing up. You might have to click on the pic above to be able to read it properly?
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 06 Jul 2017, 21:38, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2270 made 1 year ago
Hi there,

I had a go at Biabacus up until section D for you to see if I'm on the right track.

The first question I was unsure of is what OG I would like my batch to be...how do I calculate that? Also do I need to adjust the IBU at the beginning of section D?

Section E onwards looks a bit confusing!! :think:

Thanks for your help!

Miles.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2271 made 1 year ago
Hi Miles,

Let me take a quick stab at this and try to help...

1) Good job doing the BIABacus. It gets easy quick and works really well. That's the good news. It is all on one page, and at first glance it can look overwhelming, but don't worry...
2) When you are putting in gravities, decimal has to be in the right place. Look at your gravity. So example: 1.045 instead of 1045. See what I mean? Once you fix this, it fixes your spreadsheet.
3) "How to calculate OG"...? You don't calculate, it's a decision... You have to decide how "big" you want the beer. Higher gravity means bigger beer and potential for higher alcohol, and lower gravity means smaller and less alcoholic beer (everything else - in particular yeast and fermentation - being the same). How much alcohol do you want in your beer, etc.? These are questions need to be asked when deciding on OG.
4) If using a high quality recipe...if in doubt, I would recommend you go with the recipe's OG, and then change it later if you want a lower alcohol beer.
5) Do you have to adjust the IBUs at beginning of Section D? NO... If you don't you get the IBUs listed up in Section A. Or somewhat close to this if you measure it. BUT...if you want a higher or lower IBU you can adjust this and get a different beer. Nice functionality.

It's totally okay to take it one step at a time. My first (and second) time through was a bit confusing as well. Sections K on down are basically making "check points" to compare where you are at to where you should be. It gives you a chance to find a problem if there is one...

For certain, calm down, relax, and review the CBT - Clear Brewing Technology page. It goes over lots of the terminology so that things make sense a lot better. http://biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2685

Hope this helps.

Scott
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2272 made 1 year ago
Hi Scott,

Ok I made the chance with the decimal point on the original OG, I think I am happy keeping the gravity the same as I haven't quite got a want or a need to adjust it at this point.

Do I need to fill out sections E to J? How are the mashing instructions worked out?

Updated file attached.

Thanks.
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Last edited by Milesb0801 on 18 Jul 2017, 05:56, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2274 made 1 year ago
Hey Miles,

There is nothing you HAVE to do...but I think you will find it a benefit if you do fill these other sections out. Let me give you a quick sketch of what these extra sections do...

Mad_Scientist gave you some recommended temperatures for mashing, perhaps came from the book you got your recipe...? Step mashes - if you wish to do them - are normally very easy to do with BIAB. And for me they often correspond with the time I am partially pulling my bag up so I can reheat the pot. I brew lots of lagers, and use step mashes most of the time.

Sections E through J:
E - Mashing Instructions. Very important if you want to follow in the future.
F - Miscellaneous Ingredients. Also important. If you add anything not already noted, put it here...
G - Chilling & Hop Management. Fairly important (at least to me) to properly copy a recipe...
H - Fermenting & Conditioning. I always fill this out. What kind of yeast used, etc.
I - Special Instructions & Notes. I always have some things here. Occasionally have to use the Chalk Board tab (last tab in this Excel spreadsheet).
J - Tasting Notes. I have never used this one...so I skip it.

Some of the other ones are really helpful as well.
K - Estimated Volumes. Always helpful to know approximately what volume you are supposed to be at. I use this to tell me how full to fill water initially.
L - Your Actual Volumes. Do what you reasonably can... I never get the Volume at Flame Out (VFO) because I am working hard to chill the wort. But I do get the volume once chilled, so I put in the VFO measurement so that the "once chilled" matches what I actually measure.
M - Pre-pitching Gravities. First one is right as you pull your bag and start heating wort. I get a coffee cup of wort and set it aside until it chills, then measure it at a reasonable temperature. First warning if gravity is off. And if boil is not finished, can add the wort back to the boil and not lose it. Then gravity when finished (OG) is super important.
N - Pre-pitching Corrections. For me, most often I use this if my gravity (from "M") is too high, and I have to dilute by adding water. I do this at least 50% of the time, if not more. Depends on how much evaporation that I had during the brew.
O - Gravity @ Pitching. So if I added water to dilute, this is the corrected gravity.
P - If you have filled out the above, it will give you all of your "efficiency" numbers. The one most important is EIB - Efficiency Into Boil.
Q - Packaging - What volumes did you finish with...
R - Final Gravity. Important to measure and put this in because it tells you what your alcohol % is, and also what yeast attenuation wound up.

So sections K through R are more "check points"...as I think of them. If there is a problem, often times you can go back and figure out where you went off course if you fill these out. And sections E through I deals with pretty important basic things on being able to rebrew the same recipe and have the result come close (or someone else that likes your beer, ability for them to copy it).

Hope I haven't got too long-winded, and think I have... Let me know what you think, if this makes sense, and if there are more questions.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #2275 made 1 year ago
Nice post Scott :thumbs:

And, good on you Miles for getting your teeth into it :salute:

I'm just looking at your last upload and it looks like we might have missed some basics so I'll get into those and attach a corrected file*...

In Section C, you have 4.3, 100 and 16. This should be 4300, 100 and 16.

In Section D, you have 31.50 L on the first line. I see you have grabbed this from what, in the original recipe, is called "Total Liquor." This is one example of the many problems you'll find when trying to copy recipes, even from books and magazines. The terminology they use is not clear and, worse still, the critical numbers are often missing. This makes things very hard. I am extremely experienced at interpreting recipes and it's taken me at least 15 minutes to get a grasp on this one and another 30 minutes at least to write the post. So, don't feel bad if you've been struggling ;)

In fact, this recipe just doesn't add up at all I'm afraid.

*Miles, if you really want to brew this recipe, I can do my best interpretation of it but some numbers won't match those in the book because the recipe is just too ambiguous. What would you like to do?

:scratch:
PP

Has anyone written to Greg Hughes and asked him to explain what his numbers are based on? What software he's using? Has anyone got time to ask him?
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