strike temp

Post #1 made 4 years ago
Hi,
I'm getting ready to brew a northern brewer irish red ale. (3 gallon/11.36L batch) The instructions with the package say the strike water should be 162F degrees/72.2C.
But, biabacus says assuming that my grains are 80F/26.7 that I should strike at 153.8F/67.6C.

162F compared to 153.8? what am I not getting?

Thanks in advance

Greg
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Post #2 made 4 years ago
Northern Brewer probably assumes you aren't using the BIAB method, but probably some 3 vessel system. One key difference would be the amount of water used to mash – less with 3 vessel, so you'd need a higher temp to equalize the grains to the desired mash temp. With BIAB you should be doing full boil, full volume mashing, meaning all your water is used for mashing. That's a lot more water so it doesn't need to be as hot to equalize to your mash temp.

Also, Northern Brewer may be guessing your grains are closer to 70 degrees than 80, so higher again on their estimate.

Those are some key differences, though as you dial in your system you can adjust the strike temp on the BACUS (monitor over several brews before doing so). Personally, on my system, I raised the strike temp a bit in the BACUS defaults to hit my target. There is a range from 1 to 5 to make adjustments, and I think I have it at 4 (a bit hotter than default).
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Post #3 made 4 years ago
Hi Lazerghost,

Actually, this is a biab kit from Northern Brewer. I'm sure they're guessing about the grain temp. That adjustment was very helpful. I think I'll leave it at 1 because I have a heavy pot, and good burner, as noted in biabacus, and I'll monitor it as you suggest.

I'm attaching the biabacus as Ive filled it out. Whew, there's so much there.
laserghost wrote:Northern Brewer probably assumes you aren't using the BIAB method, but probably some 3 vessel system. One key difference would be the amount of water used to mash – less with 3 vessel, so you'd need a higher temp to equalize the grains to the desired mash temp. With BIAB you should be doing full boil, full volume mashing, meaning all your water is used for mashing. That's a lot more water so it doesn't need to be as hot to equalize to your mash temp.

Also, Northern Brewer may be guessing your grains are closer to 70 degrees than 80, so higher again on their estimate.

Those are some key differences, though as you dial in your system you can adjust the strike temp on the BACUS (monitor over several brews before doing so). Personally, on my system, I raised the strike temp a bit in the BACUS defaults to hit my target. There is a range from 1 to 5 to make adjustments, and I think I have it at 4 (a bit hotter than default).
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Last edited by gvhorwitz on 04 Sep 2015, 07:26, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 4 years ago
Also, what is the mash temp? 154 still sounds really low for strike temp, I think you'd want to mash at that for an Irish Red. Post your file and we can see if there are any errors.

EDIT: just saw your post, looking at file now.
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Post #6 made 4 years ago
your water to grain ratio is really high, which goes along with what I said before. I'd go with #3 on the strike temp adjustment and see how it goes. you can always raise the temp if you come in too low (cool thing about BIAB). Take notes and go for it.
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Post #7 made 4 years ago
Will do, thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted.

Greg
laserghost wrote:your water to grain ratio is really high, which goes along with what I said before. I'd go with #3 on the strike temp adjustment and see how it goes. you can always raise the temp if you come in too low (cool thing about BIAB). Take notes and go for it.
Last edited by gvhorwitz on 04 Sep 2015, 08:06, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #8 made 4 years ago
I found that the grain weights weren't entered correct, so I am attaching your BIABacus file here.

Good news is that you can probably get closer to 3.5 gallons into the fermenter (not 3) of 1.044 OG wort, based on the 86.9% efficiency BIABacus predicts. My prediction would be 3.83 gallons into fermenter of 1.044 wort, with 3.5 gallons of finished beer. I bet a quarter.

MS
BIABacus PR1.3T - NB Irish Red -MS.xls
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 04 Sep 2015, 09:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #10 made 4 years ago
gvhorwitz, what is the issue you're having entering the grain bill? I see your percents for specialty grains were 0% and your base malt was 100%. You can either enter ratios that equal 100 (total, for all grains) in the Grams/Ratios box, or enter exact weights that you already have. You have amounts entered for the specialty grains, but they are rounding down to zero as they are all .0something.

What exactly is the issue you're having entering the grain bill?
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Post #12 made 4 years ago
Well, here are the results
Pre-boil gravity 1.036; brix: 10%
pre-pitching gravity 1.055; brix:15%

I was to expect 1.044 according to the Northern Brewer data sheet.

Northern brewer called for a boil of 60 minutes, and a mash of 60 minutes.
I mashed and boiled for 90

My last batch of Caribou Slobber (northern brewer) came in at a lower gravity than expected, but I mashed for 90 minutes and boiled for 60. (I forgot to go for 90.

The Caribou Slobber was about 1/2 gallon over the 3 gallons, this current one (Irish Red) came in at about 1/4 gallon under the 3 gallons.

My next batch will be also a Northern Brewer product, this time an IPA. I like the pre-mixed grains biab kits from Northern Brewer, but clearly they're not designed for biabacus. How would you suggest I adjust my next brew. Should I change the length of boil or mash?

Thanks for your time, all

Greg
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Post #13 made 4 years ago
Greg, If your made of Money, OR want to save Money. Download the NB recipes or use your Instructions. and Buy Bulk Grains, and Hops.

50 Pound bags cost about $1.60 a pound, was as a single Pound is around $1.70-$2.49.

Then all you need to purchase small Amounts of Specialty grains, and 8oz or 16oz bags of hops can be less than $1.00 per Oz, in Bulk.

JMHO.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #14 made 4 years ago
joshua wrote:Greg, If your made of Money, OR want to save Money. Download the NB recipes or use your Instructions. and Buy Bulk Grains, and Hops.

50 Pound bags cost about $1.60 a pound, was as a single Pound is around $1.70-$2.49.

Then all you need to purchase small Amounts of Specialty grains, and 8oz or 16oz bags of hops can be less than $1.00 per Oz, in Bulk.

JMHO.
it's obvious that this is what I need to do.

Thanks,

Greg
Last edited by gvhorwitz on 06 Sep 2015, 01:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #15 made 4 years ago
Thanks, your LHBS can tell you the Bulk Grain Prices, that change every Fall, as the new Crops Come in.

Check Places like http://www.hopsdirect.com/store/ later this Winter for 80z and 16oz Hop buys

It is best to break the Pilsner/Vienna/Maris Otter/ Pale Ale/2 row and 6 row into smaller Zip Lock bags, a Gallon freezer zip-lock holds nearly 4 pounds, and if you have a NEW 33 gallon Trash Can, it can hold Nearly 150 pounds.

Brew Often and get better with each Brew....Until something goes Badly Wrong.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #16 made 4 years ago
Uh Joshua, what's LHBS
joshua wrote:Thanks, your LHBS can tell you the Bulk Grain Prices, that change every Fall, as the new Crops Come in.

Check Places like http://www.hopsdirect.com/store/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; later this Winter for 80z and 16oz Hop buys

It is best to break the Pilsner/Vienna/Maris Otter/ Pale Ale/2 row and 6 row into smaller Zip Lock bags, a Gallon freezer zip-lock holds nearly 4 pounds, and if you have a NEW 33 gallon Trash Can, it can hold Nearly 150 pounds.

Brew Often and get better with each Brew....Until something goes Badly Wrong.
Last edited by gvhorwitz on 06 Sep 2015, 09:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #20 made 4 years ago
Interesting, I'd realized that I could have at least brought the level up to the three gallon mark. It was about 1/4 gallon low.
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