Fitting tap on buffalo urn

Post #1 made 6 years ago
Hi guys, I've a 40litre buffalo and I want to fit a ball valve(I know PP , but I'm doing it anyway:)). Has anyone here managed to do that without having to enlarge the hole? The guys on Jimsbeerkit seem to be enlarging the hole which I'm reluctant to do??

Thanks

L

Post #2 made 6 years ago
Deary me :dunno:.

:lol:

A tap is fine Lars if you get the right sort. Most gas kettle brewers have to use all stainless steel ball-valves because the tap can be exposed to high temps and even raw flames occasionally. These type of taps are hard to pull apart, maintain etc etc.

However, you have an electric urn and so have more choices. For example, look at the taps on this urn and this one. These look like they might easilly pull apart just by unscrewing and won't have the dead space problem found in ball-valves.

So, don't copy gas kettle brewers. Look into what they can't do. Look for a tap that simply unscrews and has no dead space. If you do this, I will still speak with you.

:lol:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 04 Mar 2012, 18:04, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #3 made 6 years ago
Thanks PP, nice to see you're mellowing :thumbs: Those taps are kind of like the one that comes with the boiler except the one with the boiler wont stay in the open position without constant pressure. Also, I intend doing something along the lines of Nalas 'worms biab' and those taps wont allow for screw on fittings. I'm considering a 3 piece ss ball valve which look to be expensive but can be dismantled for cleaning......

Thanks

L

Post #4 made 6 years ago
Well, I was mellowing until I saw you write, '3 piece ss ball valve.' :argh:

These ball-valves are very easy to pull apart. Then you have to put them back together without losing any parts. I can think of over a dozen parts straight away but there may be more. And, then you have to put them back onto your kettle and hope you create a seal that doesn't leak. If it is going to leak, it usually won't do so at ambient temperature, it usually does so just after you have mashed in :P.

...

But, even after the above rant, my real question is why go for a worms BIAB? I know it is exciting and fun but the reality is that for 99% of brewers, it will, in reality, offer no advantage on two counts...

1. It won't be more convenient. Trust me on this.
2. It won't give you better beer. It won't.

So, Lars, why do you want to go down this road? Basically I just want to check that you aren't going down one of the many roads I have gone before and then in hindsight thought, "Why on earth did I do that?"

:lol:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 06 Mar 2012, 00:27, edited 3 times in total.
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Fitting tap on buffalo urn

Post #5 made 6 years ago
I would have thought worms BIAB would make it easier to maintain an accurate and consistent mash temp without stirring or messing around thus helping make better beer? And also mash out could be achieved by simply setting thermostat temp and you'll love this PP -- I've actually been considering adding an automatic mash stirrer to it :) but it's all pie in the sky at the moment. I would like to get around to it some day. I've a pic micro development kit and an interest in electronics and I thought this setup would lend itself well to full automation so I could get from dough in to pulling bag without any intervention and with a consistent mash temp


L

Post #6 made 6 years ago
I love the way you are thinking Lars :salute:.

I seriously love the technology and automation side of things. But, to be honest, I have never ever seen an automated system that works well. They often don't work, they don't provide flexibility and they are a nightmare to maintain.

The funniest thing is that most of the time, automation only aims to do one thing - create an even temperature.

BIAB is the easiest way of all to maintain even temperatures. An igloo/esky brewer can't do it - we can!

And, on the contrary side, I've written before, how do we really know that a beer mashed at even temperatures is any better than one mashed in pockets of temperature?

The real answer is we don't know. If an 'even' beer is better, then BIAB is great and the easiest way to do this. If an 'uneven' beer is better then BIAB is great and the easiest way to do this.

Why on earth do we need more equipment?

See what I mean?
PP
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Post #7 made 6 years ago
Hi PP,
I do see what you mean and its definitely food for thought but you havent put me off it completely. I do have visions of automating a system and even maybe automating the timed hop delivery but by then my kids will probably have grown up and I'll be happy to spend the time messing around with my brewery :thumbs:
Anyway, for now I've a more pressing matter that may require another post. I've a major trub management issue and the amount of trub in my fermentor is a pain in the a$$, particularly when trying to rinse my yeast. I'll do a search and see if I can find some pointers!

Thanks

L

Post #8 made 6 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:I love the way you are thinking Lars :salute:.

I seriously love the technology and automation side of things. But, to be honest, I have never ever seen an automated system that works well.
http://www.speidels-braumeister.de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by stux on 06 Mar 2012, 08:06, edited 3 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #9 made 6 years ago
If you can remove the tap, remove the tap the tell us about the hole ;)

Is it threaded? What's its diameter? Etc
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #10 made 6 years ago
Good Day,I am speaking from "old Skool" A stright pipe could be used to replace the valve, and some silicon hose could be attached tothe pipe to route to the Worms pump. When the pump is not in-use the hose could be attached to the top rim of the kettle prevent the draining of the kettle by accident.
Old freinds do this to stop "Effing" with the valve, that will leak after many rebuilds.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #12 made 6 years ago
And then you can use the pipe as a sight tube ;)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Fitting tap on buffalo urn

Post #13 made 6 years ago
Hi stux, it's the brau meister that inspired me. I think I could do something similar for a few hundred euros. the hole is 16mm unthreaded through a fairly light stainless steel wall. Everyone seems to bore it out to about 21mm to fit a 1/2 inch fitting.
I live the simplicity of that Joshua but I would prefer some sort of tap on it .... Still thinking . Haven't quite made my mind up yet

L

Post #14 made 6 years ago
Sounds like 3/8th

Either find a 3/8" solution or bore out to 21.7mm and go 1/2" ;)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #16 made 6 years ago
My goodness! I was so negative in my last post here :P. I haven't seen a braumeister in action but hear good reports. In fact the only automated systems I have seen in action have been three vessel systems.

I think thughes, nala (and many others) have got theirautomated single vessel systems working well now and I know you have followed their posts so you should be able to avoid some of the teething problems they had. One thing's for sure, you'll have lots of fun with it so ignore my negativity Lars. You know what you're doing. I'll enjoy watching your progress too - love those threads!

:salute:
PP
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