Post #26 made 6 years ago
i had a friend cut a hole the size of my largest pan lid (stainless, but lives in kitchen except brew day) with his plasma cutter. if anyone does this, ADD WATER to the keg first to prevent the slag from f-ing the keggle... i had to bar keeper friend that girl a grip of times before it would stop rusting over in those areas... but i also clean the heat-effected-zone on the outside once a year.
MoRdAnTlY [Mr. Wolf '91 - '11]

Post #27 made 6 years ago
Good Day mordantly, I am located in central Tennessee, and do not fully understand California dialects very well, Please explain "i had to bar keeper friend that girl a grip of times before it would stop rusting over in those areas" Thanks.
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Post #29 made 6 years ago
Bar Keepers friend is a metal polish. I'm guessing Mordantly had to polish out all of the slag marks to ensure that his keggle wouldn't rust.
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Post #31 made 6 years ago
Thanks for the tips guys! Very helpful.

Thought about buying a dremel and although it would be a handy unit to have around the house for the expense I could 'almost' buy a Birko or similar. Kind of defeats the purpose in trying to do a cheap BIAB!

Will just go with the angle grinder approach with a few cutting blades and be geeentle ;)

Does anyone know if the 1mm blades cut better than 2mm?

Will keep you posted on the progress.

Cheers
Chinaski

Post #32 made 6 years ago
Good Day, 1mm blades make a fine kerf, but shatter very often. 2mm make a wider kerf, and take longer to cut, but last longer. If the metal is thin go 1mm, if its thick, go 2mm. Just IMHO.
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Post #33 made 6 years ago
The blade you are after is most likely the thinner blade which are made for cutting stainless steel. Check with the shop owner before you buy. The thinner blade means less heat stays in the stainless steel which leads to minimal discolouration and easier cutting. I'd buy about three blades as they sometimes splinter.

Using a dremel would take you forever so you are thinking on the right track.

:peace:
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Post #34 made 6 years ago
Good Day, Of course, If there is a metal shop nearby, a plasma cutter can do a perfect job. a 2mm cut is normal, if the shop man uses a jig the hole will be perfect and can be made into a lid. Just my $0.0196Au
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Post #35 made 6 years ago
sorry for the confusion.. yes, bar keeper's friend is oxalic acid and will clean heat discoloration, rust, etc off of stainless steel. works wonders on other stuff as well, but i primarily use it in the brewery to keep the keggle polished (and speeds re-passivation due to the oxalic acid) and my spoon. it did take many applications to stop the rust spots i had but now i only need to clean the exterior bottom once a year.
MoRdAnTlY [Mr. Wolf '91 - '11]

Post #36 made 6 years ago
I cut the top off my keg with a Dremel. I tied a string around the center (fill hole)? and tied the Dremel to the other end. I made the length of the string so that pulling the string taught would let the cutting wheel land where I wanted it. I slowly and lightly scored the top in a perfect circle. After scoring the top I removed the string and hand cut the now marked top. It took a lot of time (1 hour ?) and a six pack of home brew but the cut was smooth and it looked professional. I used about 6 cutting blades which are cheap but were a pain to change.

I saw a few kegs that were cut with plasma and they were sloppy and messy looking. The top I cutout is now a cover that fits perfectly. I pop riveted some scrap metal to the top to keep it from falling in. Always relieve pressure before cutting into a keg.
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Post #37 made 6 years ago
Howdy,

Thought I'd drop you a few pix to illustrate how things went with the keg! I cut with a 1mm blade on the angle grinder, freehand just using the guard as the guide. I found it relatively easy actually, you just have to let the blade do the work and once you get the first 'groove' track going, just keep circling! I was contemplating building a PVC jig but opted against it...

So, i also decided to go with a ball valve instead of the siphon method, I think down the track I might move to a 3V system when I get my head around it so this will just turn into my kettle!

Anyway, thanks for all the help!

Chinaski
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Post #38 made 6 years ago
Good Day Chinaski, Looks Great! Well done Sir. Instead of 3V, Have you thought of a couple of 5500watt heating elements and a false bottom, and maybe a PID control system.
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Post #39 made 6 years ago
joshua wrote:Good Day Chinaski, Looks Great! Well done Sir. Instead of 3V, Have you thought of a couple of 5500watt heating elements and a false bottom, and maybe a PID control system.

Hi Joshua

Thanks mate, not too bad for a 1st timer!

I've only seen the 2400w elements around in Australia and I'm not sure what a PID system is. Can you explain?

Thanks again
Chinaski
Last edited by Chinaski on 15 Dec 2011, 07:32, edited 5 times in total.

Post #40 made 6 years ago
Good Day Chinaski, A PID controller Is a temperature controller that raises temperature quickly at start, and slows the rate quickly as it nears the setting temperature, and can hold the Temp.+-1C,

Two 2400watt heaters can boil 40 liters in around 20 minutes. In America, We have "Ulta-low-Density" water heater elements that never get hot enough to burn our bags, and are available in 2400w to 5500w Check out http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=649 a real "Bling" brew system. And http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1026 an all new electric build.
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Post #41 made 6 years ago
Chinaski wrote:...I think down the track I might move to a 3V system when I get my head around it so this will just turn into my kettle!
Hi there chinaski. Make sure you have the reasons clear in your head before you ever go three-vessel. BIAB produces at least the same quality beer with less equipment, space and hassle. There are lots of guys like myself who used to three-vessel, tried BIAB and never looked back.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Dec 2011, 17:25, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #42 made 6 years ago
Wow, Josh - very flash setup there! Nice one!

PistolPatch, thanks for the tip! I'm sure after a few BIAB's under my belt I'll be happy and settled.

Quick question in relation to ball valves (if you have one) - Do you guys use a pick up tube or just an elbow piece inside you kettle?

Cheers
Chinaski

Post #43 made 6 years ago
I don't have a drilled kettle, but if I did, I would use a pickup tube.

If I used whole hops, then I would either fit some sortof hop-blocker, or use a hop bag.

Whole Hops love to block things ;)

Pellet hops, not so much of a problem.
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Post #44 made 6 years ago
Chinaski wrote: Quick question in relation to ball valves (if you have one) - Do you guys use a pick up tube or just an elbow piece inside you kettle?
I have a pickup tube on mine. It was a 'center' but I flipped it and cut it a little to make it a side pickup tube so my immersion chiller would sit on the bottom.

FYI: Anyone using a valve and a pickup tube must use a long enough hose to maintain a siphon. see example; http://www.flickr.com/photos/madscienti" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 754235881/
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 20 Dec 2011, 07:30, edited 5 times in total.
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